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iROTHER JONATHAN SERIES"— NO. 2 

TREgTI/E 




Copyright, 1905, by The Fkuit-Grower Co., St. Joseph, Mo. 




ST <JOSE,PH, MISSOURI 




"Bro. Jonathan" 

Trade Mark of THe Fruit-Grower 

St. Joseph, Mo. 



TKe Bro. Jonathan Series 

of Booklets on Fruit Subjects 



No. 1 — Propagation of Trees and Plants. 

No. 2 —A Treatise on Spraying. 

No. 3 — How to Grow Strawberries. 

No. 4 — The Home Garden. 

No. 5— Packing and Marketing Fruits. 



Price, 25c Each Ko££3E 



A Treatise on 
Spraying 



With Description of Insects Attacking 

Apple, Peach and Strawberry, and 

Treatment Recommended For 

Holding Them in Check. 

Formulae for Spray = 

ing Mixtures. 



By J. M. STEDMAN 

Professor of Entomology, University of Missouri, 
and Entomologist of Missouri Experiment: Station. 



PUBLISHED BY THE FRUIT-GROWER COMPANY 
SAINT JOSEPH, MISSOURI 

1905 



LIBRARY of OONGftESS 
I wo Gomes rtectjiveu 

JUN 12 1905 

Oopyngm cnuy 

/// '97 

COPY B. r 



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Brother Jonathan 
Series 




Booklet No. 2 



Treface 



This little booklet is not intended to take the 
place of the more elaborate works upon injurious 
insects. It treats rather fully of the various in- 
secticides in common use, together with the meth- 
ods of making- and applying the same, but discusses 
in a very brief way only the more common injurious 
insects attacking the apple, peach and strawberry 
plants, giving the best remedies for fighting each of 
these insects. By studying the first half of the 
booklet, one should be able to intelligently combat 
almost any ordinary injurious insect found on any 
of the common cultivated plants, even though the 
insect be not discussed in this work. 

J. M. STEDMAN. 
Entomological Laboratory, University of 
Missouri, College of Agriculture and 
Experiment Station, Columbia, Mo. 
February, 1905. 



Introduction 

With very few exceptions, all insects start their 
existence as an egg wlrch, as a rule, is deposited 
by the female upon or within some particular por- 
tion of some particular plant or animal, or other 
object. Some few insects bring forth living young 
instead of depositing eggs; as, for instance, some 
parasite flies and the noted San Jose Scale; but such 
instances are few, indeed, when compared with the 
vast number of insects that always deposit eggs. 

The eggs of insects may be deposited singly or in 
rows, or in clusters of various shapes, which may be 
naked .or covered with an excretion and form con- 
spicuous objects. They also differ greatly in the 
time required for them to hatch. Some may hatch 
in a few days while others will not hatch for a 
year or more; as, for instance, Phasmidae or Walk- 
ing-sticks. 

Beginning with the egg, we find that insects de- 
velop to adults in two entirely different ways. It is 
frequently important from an economic standpoint 
to know by which method a particular insect de- 
velops. 

In one case, known as incomplete metamorphosis, 
the egg hatches into an insect that looks very much 
like the adult, except it is smaller and has no wings. 
These young insects, known as Nymphs, feed, grow 
and cast their skins a number of times, each time 
appearing larger and more like the adult, and if 
they are to have wings, they become larger at each 
moult until the adult stage is reached, after which 
no insect moults again except, perhaps, Ephemer- 
idae. Examples of such development can be found 



6 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

in grasshoppers, chinch bugs, bed bugs, plant lice 
and the like. By observing the Tarnished plant bug 
at Figs. 32, 33 and 34, one will see illustrated these 
incomplete stages in the method of development 
just described. Fig. 32, is the young nymph; Fig. 
33, an intermediate stage of the nymph, and Fig. 34, 
the adult stage. 

The important points to remember about insects 
developing by this method are that they feed con- 
tinually from the time they hatch from the eggs until 
they die; that if they are sucking insects, that is 
take their food by piercing a plant or animal with 
their beaks and extracting sap or blood, or are bit- 
ing insects, that is, take their food by eating away 
and swallowing portions of the tissue of the animal 
or plant, that in all cases they continue to thus take 
their food from the time they hatch from the eggs 
until they die as adults. 

In the other cases, known as complete metamor- 
phosis, the egg hatches into an insect that looks noth- 
ing like the adult, but resembles a worm, or grub, in 
appearance, and is called the larva. These larvae 
feed, grow and cast their skins a number of times, 
but still retain the worm-like appearance until they 
are ready to transform to the pupa stage. The pupa 
looks nothing like the larva or the adult, but is 
helpless and quite motionless, and takes no food 
whatever. It may be naked or enclosed in some 
kind of a covering or cocoon. After a time the pupa 
skin splits open and the adult insect emerges. Ex- 
amples of such development are found in beetles, 
moths, flies and the like. 

The important points to remember in regard to 
insects developing by this method are that, as a rule 
the feeding, and therefore injury, is done entirely in 
the larval stage, the adults rarely taking food; and 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 




© £ 
O-© 



8 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

that because the larvae usually have biting" mouth 
parts and therefore eat away and swallow portions 
of the plant or animal they are feeding" on, it 
does not follow that the adults will have the same 
kind of mouth parts. The larva may have biting 
mouth parts and the adult either biting or sucking 
mouth parts, according to the order to which' it be- 
longs. For example, the larva of the flat-headed 
apple-tree borer has biting" mouth parts and the 
adult also, while the larva of the canker worm or 
the cabbage butterfly, has biting mouth parts, while 
the adult of each 'has sucking mouth parts. By ob- 
serving the Colorado potato beetle in Fig. 1, one will 
notice the eggs, larvae in various stages, pupa and 
adult beetles illustrating the complete changes in 
the method of development just described. 

INSECTICIDES. 

Before one can hope to intelligently combat an 
insect, it is important to understand the life history 
and habits of that particular insect, from the de- 
positing of the eggs to the development and natural 
death of the adult; and it is absolutely necessary to 
know the method by which the insect takes its food 
in all stages. In other words, it is of the utmost 
importance and absolutely essential to know defi- 
nitely whether the insect you are to fight has biting 
or sucking mouth parts in the stage in which you 
are to combat it. On this apparently simple point 
depends almost entirely the method of procedure, so 
far as spraying or dusting is concerned, and it is 
right here that nine-tenths of all the failures to com- 
bat insects by methods of spraying or dusting fail. 

Before you attempt to spray or dust, first deter- 
mine absolutely whether or not you have a biting or 
a sucking insect to deal with. As it is not always an 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 9 

easy matter for the horticulturist to determine this 
point by examining" the insect through a magnifying 
glass he should rely, as a rule, entirely on an exami- 
nation of the infested parts of the plant, where the 
insects are feeding. If he finds portions of the tis- 
sue removed, he knows it must have been done by a 
biting insect; while, if he finds no portions of the 
tissue removed, he knows the injury must have been 
caused by a sucking insect, having" inserted its beak 
into the tissue and extracted the sap. 

It is evident to all that if we cover the tissue of 
the plant with an arsenical poison, that just so long 
as that poison remains there any biting" insect at- 
tacking that part of the plant will remove and swal- 
low a portion of the tissue with its coating- of poison 
and be killed, since a very small trace of any ar- 
senical poison, if swallowed, is sufficient to kill most 
insects. On the other hand, it is equally evident to 
all that, no matter how much arsenical poison may 
be on a plant, if a sucking insect feeds there it 
will simply push its beak through the poison and 
into the tissue of the plant, suck the healthy sap 
below and get absolutely no poison into its body, 
and hence not be injured or killed. Since an ar- 
senical poison does not injure an insect except it be 
swallowed by the insect, it is useless to try and kill 
a sucking" insect with arsenical poisons, or any insect 
by simply covering the insect itself. 

A sucking insect must be killed by some substance 
which will do its work' when it touches the insect's 
body on the outside, arid no arsenical poison will 
accomplish this purpose. 

The various substances to be used in killing in- 
sects, together with the methods of preparing and 
applying- them, are the following: 



10 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

FOR BITING INSECTS. 

Paris Green. 

Paris green, when pure, is one of the best ar- 
senical poisons for general purposes. It is a chem- 
ical combination of arsenic and copper and is theo- 
retically insoluble in water. As a matter of fact, 
however, one finds in practice, that it usually con- 
tains a small per cent of soluble arsenic, and hence 
the necessity of adding lime to the spraying mixture 
in order to counteract the injurious effect of the 
trace of soluble arsenic on the foliage of many 
plants. 

Unfortunately paris green is frequently adulter- 
ated to a greater or less degree, and hence it be- 
comes necessary to be careful in purchasing this 
drug lest one fail in the result expected from its use. 
We have seen so-called paris green that did not con- 
tain a trace of any poison whatever, it being simply 
plaster of paris, colored with indigo and chrome yel- 
low. Pure paris green should contain about 56 per 
cent arsenic in chemical combination with copper, 
and should contain little, if any, trace of soluble 
arsenic. 

In many states laws have been passed to prevent 
this adulteration, the law requiring the paris green 
to contain 50 per cent arsenic. This law has led to 
another and even more serious difficulty, however, 
since in some instances, in order to bring the ar- 
senic up to the standard required by law, common 
arsenic has been added, and as this is soluble in 
water, the use of such paris green has caused the 
death or injury of sprayed plants. Do not purchase 
cheap paris green, but be sure and get the best. 

Test — Pure paris green will dissolve easily in 
strong ammonia and leave no residue, and the solu~ 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 11 

tion will have a deep blue color. If a residue is 
left, or if the solution does not look blue, adultera- 
tion may be suspected, although this test is not abso- 
lutely certain in all cases. This is the quickest and 
best test the general horticulturist can make. 

The formula for the use of paris green is as 
follows: 

Paris green, 1 pound. 

Fresh stone lime, 3 pounds. 

Water, 100 to 175 gallons. 

The lime should be slaked in the usual way and 
added to the water, stirred and strained through 
cheese cloth. The paris green should be mixed with 
a little water to form a paste and then added to the 
lime water, stirring the while. The amount of water 
to be used will depend on the plant to be sprayed 
and the insect to be killed. For instance, if one is 
to spray only once for canker worm in an apple or- 
chard, one pound of paris green and three pounds 
of lime should be added to 100 or 125 gallons of 
water, while if the apple orchard is to be sprayed 
for codling moth, which requires four sprayings, 
then one pound of Paris green and three pounds 
of lime should be added to 175 gallons of water. 
The different proportions to be used will be given 
under the discussion of each insect. 

Since paris green is insoluble in water and settles 
to the bottom rapidly, it is absolutely essential that 
the liquid be kept constantly well stirred while the 
spraying is going on, otherwise the strength of the 
spray will not be constant. 

If paris green is to be added to Bordeaux mix- 
ture, it should be done by regarding the Bordeaux 
mixture as so much water, adding the paris green 
and lime in the proper proportion. 



12 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



Scheele's Green. 

Scheele's green is an arsenate of copper that has 
great advantage over paris green in that it is a much 
finer powder and therefore remains suspended in 
water much longer, and does not require the con- 
stant stirring that paris green does. It will, in fact, 
stay suspended in water twenty-four times as long as 
paris green. It is to be used in the same propor- 
tion as paris green and the lime is also to be added. 
It can likewise be used in Bordeaux mixture, just as 
paris green is so used. In fact, Scheele's green is 
a perfect substitute for paris green as above stated. 

Both paris green and Scheele's green can be ap- 
plied as a liquid spray, according to the formula 
above indicated, either in water or in Bordeaux mix- 
ture, or they can be applied as a dry dust or pow- 
der by mixing them with lime dust or flour, as ex- 
plained under the discussion "Dust Process." 

Green Arsenite, or Arsenoid. 

Green arsenite, or arsenoid, is a trade name 
given to a commercial substitute for Scheele's green 
and as its composition varies considerably, it is not 
so reliable or satisfactory to use as the original 
Scheele's green. It is to be used the same as paris 
green or Scheele's green. 

London Purple. 

Since London purple is a by-product from the 
manufacture of aniline dyes and is not made as a 
definite substance, its chemical composition varies 
from time to time, and hence cannot be relied upon 
to always give good or uniform results. It is an ar- 
senite of lime, and is cheaper and remains in sus- 
pension longer than paris green, but not so long as 
Scheele's green. It is advisable not to use London 
purple when other arsenical poisons, such as good 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 13 

paris green or Scheele's green, can be obtained. If 
it has to be used it should be mixed and applied by 
the same formula as given for paris green. 

Arsenite of Lime. 

As arsenite of lime must be made by the horti- 
culturist by boiling arsenic and lime, and as its 
preparation is difficult and uncertain, and also as its 
use is, attended with considerable risk, I will omit 
giving the formula for its prepartion, and advise you 
to let it alone and to use arsenite of soda in its 
stead. 

Arsenite of Soda. 

An effort to find a cheap arsenical poison that 
could be relied upon not to be adulterated and that 
could be sprayed on plants without undue danger to 
the foliage, has resulted in the introduction of ar- 
senite of soda, the formula and preparation of 
which is as follows: 

White arsenic (powdered), 2 pounds. 

Sal soda, 8 pounds. 

Water, 2 gallons. 

Boil 15 minutes. 

The arsenic and sal soda should be added to the 
2 gallons of water and a mark made on the vessel 
to indicate the exact position of the water. The 
vessel should then be placed on the fire rind* boiled 
vigorously for about 15 minutes, or until everything 
is dissolved. If any residue remains after 20 min- 
utes of vigorous boiling some of the chemicals must 
have been impure. Remove the vessel from the fire 
and add water to make up the loss in boiling. Hence 
the necessity of having made the mark indicating 
the original height of the two gallons. The addition 
of sufficient water to make the original two gal- 



14 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

ions is necessary since the solution is a concentrated 
one, and if less than two gallons of water is used 
the chemicals will crystallize out when the liquid 
cools, and ruin the mixture. This stock solution 
should now be placed in an earthen jug and properly 
labeled and the jug should never be used for any 
other purpose thereafter. This stock solution is of 
course deadly poison and should be kept in a safe 
place. It can be made up at any time, and will keep 
indefinitely if the jug be corked. When one wishes 
to use the arsenite of soda remember that two 
quarts of this stock solution is equivalent in poison- 
ir.g properties to one pound of . paris green; but un- 
like paris green it will injure the foliage in its pres- 
ent condition, and hence it is absolutely essential to 
slake eight pounds of fresh stone lime and add it to 
100 to 175 gallons of water, stir and filter, and then 
add the two quarts of stock solution of arsenite of 
soda and stir thoroughly. There is very little dan- 
ger attending the use of arsenite of soda in con- 
nection with the amount of lime indicated, because 
a chemical change takes place when the limewater 
and arsenite of soda are mixed, resulting in the pro- 
duction of arsenite of lime which is insoluble in 
water and cannot injure the foliage. This spraying 
mixture has no special advantage over pure paris 
green, except the fact that one is more certain of 
having pure chemicals and the proper amount of 
arsenic in order to kill the insects desired. If this 
substance is to be added to Bordeaux mixture it can 
be done by regarding the Bordeaux mixture as water 
and adding the eight pounds of fresh stone lime for 
every two quarts of the arsenite of soda. 

Arsenate of Lead. 

Arsenate of lead can be purchased in the market 
properly prepared under the trade name "Dispar- 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 15 

ene," but commercial arsenate of lead must not be 
used, hence unless "Disparene" be purchased one 
must make his own arsenate of lead, according to 
the following formula: 

Acetate of lead, 24 ounces. 

Arsenate of soda, 8 ounces. 

Water, 100 gallons. 

Only the best chemicals should be used in the 
preparation of the arsenate of lead. First-class crys- 
tallized acetate of lead contains about 59 per cent 
available lead oxide, and first-class arsenate of soda 
should not contain more than 3 per cent chloride. 
The acetate of lead should be thoroughly dissolved 
in a half bucket of water, and the arsenate of soda 
thoroughly dissolved separately in still another half 
bucket of water. After both are thoroughly dis- 
solved, turn them together into a receptacle, stir 
thoroughly, and allow it to remain over night. A 
chemical change takes place and there is formed 
arsenate of lead which will nearly fill the liquid with 
a white flocculent precipitate. Add all to the spray- 
ing tank containing 100 gallons of water, stir and it 
is ready for use. 

Arsenate of lead has the following advantages 
over other arsenical poisons: First, it is not so liable 
to injure foliage, no matter how strong it be ap- 
plied; secondly, it is easily prepared, does not re- 
quire the use of lime and hence does not need to be 
strained; thirdly, it is very fine and flocculent and 
hence remains in suspension with very little stirring, 
and does not clog or stop up the spray nozzles; 
fourthly, it sticks much better on the foliage than 
any other arsenical spray, even after repeated rains, 
and as it is white, it is very easy to see just where 
and to what extent one has sprayed. I regard this 



16 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

arsenate of lead as the best known arsenical poison 
with which to spray plants fcfr biting- insects. 

Occasionally when some of the chemicals above 
given cannot be had nitrate of lead is used instead 
of acetate of lead, or arsenite of soda instead of ar- 
senate of soda, but nitrate of lead and arsenite of 
soda are not used tog-ether. The formula and prepa- 
ration is the same in all cases. 

Powdered White Hellebore. 

This substance is used as a substitute for arsenical 
poisons when one desires to spray plants, the fruit 
on which is about ripe and ready to eat, such as 
strawberries, raspberries and currants. It is made 
by pulverizing the roots of the white hellebore 
plant and will kill most biting insects that swallow 
it, provided it be fresh, but it soon loses its poison- 
ous properties when exposed to the air on plants, 
and hence becomes harmless in a few days. In pur- 
chasing" this powder one should be sure to purchase 
fresh material or at least freshly pulverized roots, 
otherwise it may have lost its poisonous properties 
before you wish to use it. It may be applied as a 
dry powder, dusted full strength on the plants, 
especially when a dew is on them, or it may be 
mixed with three parts of flour or air slaked lime, or 
it may be sprayed on the plants by mixing- one 
pound with 50 g-allons of water. 

FOR SUCKING INSECTS. 

Kerosene emulsion is the every-day insecticide to 
use in combating- sucking- insects, and must be made 
by the horticulturist at the time, ■ cr soon before the 
time, he wishes to do the spraying-. The following 
formula for making- kerosene emulsion must be fol- 
lowed exactly, since otherwise one will not make a 
complete emulsion: 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 17 

Hard sqap (preferably good whale-oil soap), one- 
half pound. 

Kerosene, 2 gallons. 

Water (soft), 1 gallon. 

Churn ten minutes. 

Add water, 19 gallons. 

The hard soap should he cut up into small pieces 
and thoroughly dissolved in the one gallon of soft 
water by the use of heat. When the soap is thor- 
oughly dissolved and the water boiling hot, remove 
the vessel from the fire and add two gallons of kero- 
sene (coal oil). The receptacle should be large 
enough to contain about twice this amount of ma- 
terial. Remove the spray nozzle from the pump 
and churn this material thoroughly for ten minutes 
by pumping it back into itself. In a few minutes 
the material will look like milk, but one should not 
stop, but keep this churning up the whole time, 
otherwise a complete emulsion may not be formed. 
At the expiration of the ten minutes' churning, the 
material will be thick and creamy in consistency, 
and will now keep a long time without the kerosene 
separating and forming on top. When one desires to 
spray this stock emulsion should be added to 19 
gallons of water and the whole stirred thoroughly. 
Should the stock emulsion be too thick and hard to 
mix readily with w T ater, it can be heated silghtly, 
but this heating should be done out doors, and one 
should be careful not to get the stock emulsion 
afire. The effectiveness of kerosene emulsion is 
improved by the addition of a pound of pyrethrum. 
In applying kerosene emulsion, pumps should be 
used that do not have rubber valves. If the pumps 
have spherical rubber valves you should remove 
them and substitute marbles, since the kerosene 
emulsion, especially when whale oil soap is used, 



18 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

acts very rapidly on rubber. In making 1 the kero- 
sene emulsion any hard laundry soap will answer, 
but better results are obtained if good whale oil 
soap be substituted. There are a great many poor 
brands of whale oil soap on the market, and one 
will have great difficulty in making an emulsion 
from them. Good Caustic Potash Whale Oil Soap 
should be obtained, if possible. 

Kerosene emulsion is troublesome to make, and 
for that reason many people do not use it when they 
should do so. Of recent years the better manu- 
facturers of spray pumps have added an attachment 
to their pumps by means of which pure kerosene is 
placed in a special tank and the water or the Bor- 
deaux mixture (either one containing arsenical poison 
if necessary) is placed in the barrel, and by means 
of an indicator the proper proportion of kerosene 
and water can be mixed and sprayed upon the 
plants. In general, the indicator should be set for 
ten per cent kerosene. Theoretically, this is a most 
excellent device, since it does away with all the 
trouble connected with the making of kerosene 
emulsion, and enables us to use the kerosene for 
sucking" insects in connection with Bordeaux mix- 
ture and arsenical poisons, thus enabling us to spray 
with one operation for not only biting and sucking 
insects both, but for fungus diseases also. In most 
cases this mechanical mixture of kerosene and water 
kills insects much more readily than the emulsion 
and on most plants has no special injurious effect. 
Practically, however, these pumps cannot be abso- 
lutely depended upon to throw the percentage of 
kerosene and water indicated, nor to throw the 
same per cent continually. Occasionally one obtains 
a pump which will work satisfactorily, but more 
often the pumps need constant attention, lest they 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 10 

spray too much kerosene or not enough. It is a 
good plan to thoroughly test a pump before taking 
it to the orchard, and even there to make a test at 
the end of each row to see that the pump is work- 
ing properly all the time. The test is usually easily 
made by turning the spray into a glass jar and allow- 
ing the kerosene to separate and rise on top, when 
the variation from ten per cent kerosene can be 
easily determined. In general, pumps which have a 
separate pump for kerosene receptacle and another 
distinct pump for the liquid in the barrel, are prefer- 
able to those pumps which suck both kerosene and 
water through the same cylinder. 
Whale Oil Soap. 
It is frequently much quicker and handier to use 
whale oil soap than to make kerosene emulsion or 
to use the kerosene and water mixing pump. Soft 
bodied insects such as plant lice or aphids can be 
readily killed by a spray made by dissolving one 
pound of caustic potash whale oil soap in seven gal- 
lons of water. Here, again, it is important that the 
best whale oil soap be used. Many of the brands 
now on the market are practically useless. Whale 
oil soap used in the proportion I have just indicated 
is cheap and easily prepared and does not injure any 
of our ordinary plants. In spraying for the San 
Jose scale, whale oil soap is used in the proportion 
of two pounds of soap to one gallon of water. This 
proportion becomes quite expensive for a large or- 
chard, although where only a few trees are to be 
sprayed it is not excessive. In order to dissolve 
the two pounds of whale oil soap in one gallon of 
water and keep it in the form of a liquid it is nec- 
essary to do the spraying while the solution is hot, 
and this is liable to eat up the rubber hose or any 
other rubber coming in contact with the same. 



20 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

Tobacco Tea. 

It is sometimes convenient to use tobacco tea for 
sucking insects instead of the kerosene emulsion or 
of the kerosene and water mixture, or even of the 
whale oil soap, although the tobacco tea does not 
give as good results in all cases. It is an excellent 
spray for plant lice, especially on small plants, and 
as it is easily prepared, it becomes useful where one 
does not have enough spraying to warrant the prep- 
aration of the kerosene emulsion. Any refuse to- 
bacco, preferably the strippings or stems, should be 
used for this purpose, and in the following propor- 
tion: 

Tobacco, 1 pound. 

Water, 2 gallons. 

The tobacco should be placed in cold water and the 
same boiled for a few minutes, after which it can 
be strained and the liquid or tea sprayed upon the 
plants. When one is using a large quantity of this 
material its killing properties can be increased by 
the addition of one pound of caustic potash whale 
oil soap to each fifty gallons of the tobacco tea. 
Tobacco tea as an insecticide for sucking insects 
should be used in preference to the kerosene prep- 
arations where one wishes to spray plants the fruit 
on which is nearly full grown or the leaves of which 
we are to eat, since the tobacco tea will not taint the 
leaves or the fruit, while kerosene emulsion or kero- 
sene and water mechanically mixed will taint them 
so as to render them unfit for food. 

Tobacco tea is an excellent thing for such plants 
as strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and the 
like, when the fruit is nearly grown. 

Lime, Sulphur and Salt. 

There are several different formulae used by fruit- 
growers and experiment stations combining lime, 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 21 

sulphur and salt, or caustic soda, only two of which 
will be given here. The first one requires boiling 
by artificial heat and is as follows: 

Lime, 15 pounds. 
Sulphur, 15 pounds. 
Salt, 15 pounds. 
Water, 50 gallons. 

The above mixture is prepared by slaking the lime 
to a thin whitewash and then adding the sulphur 
(which has previously been made into a paste by 
means of hot water), the whole is then stirred, and 
the salt (dissolved in enough water to readily dis- 
solve it) is then added and the entire mixture boiled 
for two hours. After boiling for a sufficient length 
of time, enough hot water is added to bring the 
entire mixture up to fifty gallons. This spray is 
more effectual when applied hot. The time and 
method of applying will be given under "The San 
Jose Scale." 

Experiments recently conducted at the Geneva, 
N. Y., Experiment Station go to show that the use 
of salt in connection with the lime and sulphur has 
no insecticidal effect whatever. They have, there- 
fore, omitted the salt in the above formula and 
found that it killed the San Jose scale as effectually 
and as thoroughly and with no more injurious ef- 
fect upon the trees than from those washes contain- 
ing the salt. The method of preparation is the same 
as above given with the omission of the salt. Ex- 
periments conducted at the New Jersey Experiment 
Station, however, seem to indicate that the presence 
of salt has an advantage. 

The second formula is as follows: 



22 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

Lime, Sulphur and Soda. 

Lime, 30 pounds. 
Sulphur, 15 pounds. 
Caustic soda, 6 pounds. 
Water, 50 gallons. 

As this mixture is prepared without artificial heat, 
the chemical heat of the mixture being" depended 
upon entirely to convert the substance to the proper 
union, a somewhat different method of procedure 
becomes necessary. The lime should be placed in 
the proper tank and about six gallons of hot water 
turned over it. The sulphur is now made into a 
thin paste by means of hot water and as soon as the 
lime commences to slake the sulphur paste should be 
turned over it and the whole thoroughly and con- 
tinually mixed. As soon as the lime is nearly 
slaked the caustic soda should be added and also hot 
water as needed to keep the material from becoming 
too hard or the stirring too difficult. It is also im- 
portant that the mixture be stirred thoroughly dur- 
ing the boiling process after the caustic soda has 
been added. As soon as the chemical action has 
ceased the proper amount of hot water should be 
added to make the fifty gallons, and the whole 
thoroughly mixed. It is then ready to apply. This 
formula and the method of making the mixture 
without artificial heat originated with the Geneva, 
New York, Experiment Station. In some of my ex- 
periments and those of other experiment stations the 
self-boiled mixture has not always killed all the San 
Jose scale, while no difficulty of this nature has 
been experienced with the mixture requiring arti- 
ficial boiling. The best fresh stone lime and the best 
caustic soda should be used in order to obtain the 
best results. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 23 

FOR BOTH BITING AND SUCKING INSECTS. 

Pyrethrum. 

Pyrethrum is a yellow colored powder made by 
pulverizing- the flowers of the pyrethrum plant, and 
is one of our best insecticides. It undoubtedly owe^s 
its poisonous properties to a volatile oil, and while 
deadly poison to all kinds of insects, — especially 
when enclosed in a room or box, — it is absolutely 
harmless to man and all kinds of domesticated ani- 
mals. It is absolutely essential in order to have suc- 
cess in the use of this material that one obtain ab- 
solutely fresh material, and also material that is 
pure. Pyrethrum powder loses its poisonous prop- 
erties in a very short time, and hence cannot be kept 
over from one season to another, even in an air- 
tight jar. It is better to order this material as need- 
ed from some reliable wholesale drug house. It 
cannot be purchased for less than forty cents per 
pound, plus the carriage. There are on the market 
many insect powders of various names, which are 
nothing more nor less than pyrethrum adulterated 
with flour or other substances. These various pow- 
ders should not be used by the horticulturist, and 
he should be careful in regard to adulteration, since 
pyrethrum is frequently mixed with flour, colored 
with chrome yellow, and an enormous profit made. 
Fresh pyrethrum powder can be applied as a dry 
powder either unadulterated or mixed with common 
flour in the proportion of one pound of pyre- 
thrum to three pounds of flour, or it can be sprayed 
on the plants -by mixing a pound of pyrethrum in 
three gallons of water. Pyrethrum has no injurious 
effects whatever on any plant. It is used more 
especially on strawberries and other small fruits 
when the same are ripening'. 



24 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

Carbon Bisulphide. 

Carbon bisulphide is a clear liquid looking much 
like water, but it is very much heavier and evapor- 
ates immediately on exposure to the air. The fumes 
are heavier than the air and therefore settle to the 
bottom of the room, bin or box, and will not be 
disseminated through the same like gas. The fumes 
of bisulphide of carbon are deadly to all kinds of 
insect life, provided the air contains a sufficient 
quantity and the insects be confined, such as would 
be the case under ground or in a room or box. Bi- 
sulphide of carbon is one of the best insecticides we 
can use when the insects are thus confined in a 
closed place. The only precaution to be taken in 
the use of bisulphide of carbon is not to go into the 
room containing the fumes of this material with a 
lighted pipe or lantern, or any trace of a fire, or to 
handle or use bisulphide of carbon when a light of 
any kind is near; since an explosion may thereby 
occur. Bisulphide will not explode from handling. 

It is well to know that bisulphide of carbon can 
be obtained from the manufacturers for ten cents a 
pound in fifty-pound drums. So far as the horti- 
culturist is concerned, bisulphide of carbon is used 
principally for subterranean insects. 

Where one wishes to kill the insects in a room or 
box, two pounds of the bisulphide of carbon should 
be placed in the upper part of the same for every 
one thousand cubic feet of room space, regardless 
of the amount of material to be fumigated. This 
can be done by saturating rags or by placing the 
liquid in shallow dishes. It will do no good to put 
the same on the floor. The room or box should be 
closed up for two to three days, and then opened 
up and allowed to air out thoroughly. AH cracks 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 25 

and crevices should be stopped up so far as possible 
in order not to have a circulation of air. 

Hydrocyanic Acid Gas. 

This is the most poisonous substance known, and 
great caution should be taken in regard to its use. 
The formula is as follows: 

Sulphuric acid, 1-2 pound. 

Water, 1 1-2 pounds. 

Cyanide of potassium, 1-4 pound. 

The amount above given is sufficient for six hun- 
dred cubic feet of room space, and more or less 
should be used according to the size of the room. 
The amount of material to be fumigated should not 
be taken into account in figuring the cubic contents 
of the room. The gas should be allowed to act from 
thirty to forty-five minutes, after which the fumi- 
gating chamber should be aired thoroughly before 
one enters the same. The better plan to follow is 
to place the water in a large, deep earthen vessel, 
such as a crock, then turn in the sulphuric acid 
slowly stirring the while, and when everything is 
all ready drop in the proper amount of cyanide of 
potassium and get out immediately, closing the room 
up tightly. Hydrocyanic acid gas is used more espe- 
cially for fumigating nursery stock, small plants, 
greenhouses and the like. 

METHODS OF APPLICATION OF INSECTICIDES. 
LIQUID PROCESS. 

In most instances insecticides cannot be applied 
full strength either because of injury to the plants 
or because of undue waste of material. Therefore 
water has been used and is still generally used as a 
carrier for these substances, and, in most cases, is 
the best carrier known. It has some disadvantages, 
notably the great weight that must be carried about. 



26 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

The water, however, can be managed perfectly under 
practically all conditions of weather, and can be 
thrown as a fine or coarse spray at will; it has the 
advantage of sticking upon the foliage of most 
plants, therefore causing the insecticide to remain 
fastened to the plant. Many insecticides cannot be 
applied to plants by any other carrier than water, 
and in nearly all cases water gives the most satis- 
factory results, although in a few instances it is not 
as convenient as dust. 

THE DUST PROCESS. 

Of recent years dust as a carrier for various in- 
secticides has been used, especially in Missouri, and 
a vast amount of discussion has arisen in regard to 
the effectiveness of this process as compared with 
the liquid process. Air slaked lime in a finely 
powdered condition is the usual substance used as a 
carrier in the dust process, although for small plants 
flour or finely sifted wood ashes can be used. 

The dust process cannot take the place of the 
liquid process for applying insecticides in all cases, 
but in many instances it is just as effectual, while 
in a few it seems to be more so. Where one has a 
number of small plants, such as cabbages, straw- 
berries and the like, it frequently happens that the 
dust process is more effectual than the liquid, and 
also has an advantage over the liquid process in that 
it is much more easily handled. On the other hand, 
in spraying large orchard trees it is not so effectual, 
especially for the codling moth, as is the liquid pro- 
cess. However, there are a number of instances 
where it is practically impossible for the orchardist 
to spray the orchard at the proper time if compelled 
to use the liquid process. For instance, many or- 
chards are located on steep hillsides, where It Is 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 27 

practically impossible for a team to draw a heavy 
load of water. The ground in other orchards is so 
soft during the spring that it is practically impossi- 
ble to draw a heavily loaded water tank through the 
orchard. In still other orchards the location is such 
that it is impossible to obtain sufficient water for 
the spraying. In such instances, it becomes a matter 
of using the dust process or none at all. It is advis- 
able, therefore, that this dust process be used in all 
such cases. The dust has a decided advantage over 
tjie liquid process in that it does not require any- 
thing like the bulk and weight to be carried through 
the orchard. In the garden this becomes unusually 
apparent where a person cannot readily use a barrel 
mounted on a cart. The dust process is so much 
lighter that a person can readily carry the machine 
and do the dusting that would require a barrel of 
water in case of the liquid process. The dust pro- 
cess also has .an advantage in that, in many in- 
stances, it is much more readily made up, and many 
people will use a small hand dust machine where 
they will not go to the trouble of using a liquid one. 

There are some precautions, however, in the use 
of the dust process that do not enter into the liquid. 
The paris green or other arsenical poisons used in 
the dust machines readily float in the air, and are 
blown a considerable distance by the wind, so that 
in dusting the trees one should be careful to see 
that the dust does not blow in the face, otherwise 
one is apt to inhale too much arsenical poison. The 
horses should also 'be kept away from the dust. 

It is advisable in the use of dust to apply it early 
in the morning while the dew is on the plants, or 
soon after a rain, and it is also well to apply the 
dust when there is a slight breeze. The wind will 
carry the dust through the tree, so that it will not 



28 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 




PIG. 2. Spray pump with kerosene attachment. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 29 

be necessary in all instances to dust from two sides. 
The dust, when properly made and applied, has a 
tendency to cover more surface than the liquid 
process with the same amount of work, but unless 
the plants be somewhat damp the dust has a less 
tendency to remain on them. 

In making the various insecticides for dust ma- 
chines it is advisable to use finely powdered lime as 
a carrier for the poison, although it is possible, espe- 
cially with small plants, to use common flour, or 
finely sifted wood ashes. 

In making the powdered lime, it is well to do so 
in the following way: Take ten pounds of fresh 
stone lime and break up the lumps so that they will 
be about the size of a hen's egg. Place these in a 
sieve, the bottom of which should be made of com- . 
mon wire mosquito netting, and sprinkle water 
slowly over this so that the lime will take up all the 
water. When it begins to slake stop pouring, and 
begin again when it becomes necessary to keep up 
the slaking; the idea being not to allow the water 
to drop down through the sieve, or to put on enough 
water to cause the lime to become putty. With very 
little experience one will soon learn to slake this lime 
in such a way as to cause the fine particles to drop 
down through the sieve as fine slake into the box 
underneath, and yet not wet the powdered lime that 
has fallen through. It is well to stir the lime in the 
sieve occasionally. About three quarts of water is 
required to properly slake the ten pounds of lime. 
After the lime is all slaked, and has been sifted 
through, cover the box over and allow it to heat for 
a time. If this process be properly conducted there 
will be no further need of sifting the lime, as it will 
all be in a fine, dry powder. This may now be kept 
indefinitely in a dry place. 



30 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 










.i'T *!]liU.fj. S H %v;A- - .. ^ £ 









FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 31 

When one wishes to spray for a biting" insect, all 
that is necessary is to thoroughly mix a pound of 
paris green or Scheele's green with twenty to forty 
pounds of powdered lime, fill the machine and ap- 
ply. It is possible with some machines to make this 
mixture twice as strong and yet not waste the in- 
secticide, because of the fact that they can be so 
regulated as to allow but a certain amount to be 
applied. In the case of cabbage and potatoes, paris 
green or Scheele's green can be put into the ma- 
chine without lime, and the machine so set as to dust 
one pound to the acre, but even here it is advisable 
to mix the insecticide with a few pounds of lime or 
flour. 

One disadvantage in the use of dust sprays is 
that we are restricted in the use of insecticides to 
those that can be powdered. So far as my experi- 
ments go, I have not been able to use arsenate of 
lead or arsenite of soda with as little trouble as we 
can paris green or Scheele's green, and yet, in many 
instance?, it is advisable to use the arsenite of soda 
or the arsenate of lead. 

In the use of the dust process for sucking insects 
I have not had anything like as good success as can 
be obtained by the liquid process. It is possible to 
dissolve concentrated lye in the water that is to be 
used for slaking the lime, and thereby render the 
lime caustic enough to kill many insects by contact; 
but it does not have the wide killing power found 
in the use of kerosene, either as an emulsion or as 
a ten per cent mixture in water by means of the new 
spray pumps. 

It will be seen from the above that the dust 
process has advantages, as well as disadvantages, 
over the liquid process, and that it cannot take the 
place of the liquid process in all cases in combating 



32 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



the various insects. I advise all fruit-growers, agri- 
culturists and especially gardeners to obtain at least 
a hand dust machine for use in connection with the 
liquid sprays. There are several machines now man- 
ufactured for the distribution of dust. Some of them 




FIG. 4. Dust spray Machine. 

have advantages over others, but, as a rule, the ma- 
chines that use a crank power are better than those 
that use other methods of g-enerating the air blast. 



APPLICATION. 

Whether one be using- the liquid process or the 
dust process, thoroughness of work is of the first 
importance. This is especially the case where a 
liquid spray is being used to combat sucking insects, 
because here one must touch each insect itself in* 
order to kill it, and nothing" short of the most thor- 
ough work will accomplish the best result. In using 
the liquid process one should exert as much pressure 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 



33 



as possible in order to throw as fine a spray and 
with as much force as can he accomplished by a 
hand machine. It is impossible for hand spray 
pumps to spray as fine a spray and to throw the 




FIG. 5. Hand Dust Spray Machine. 

same with as much force, as automatic or gasoline 
machine; but one should keep as much pressure in 
the pump as possible. It is a well known fact that 
the finer the spray the more evenly distributed will 
be the insecticide, and, other things being equal, the 



34 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 




Large Orchard Dust Spray Machine. 



more thorough the work; and it is also a well known 
fact that the finer the spray the more insecticide 
one can cause to remain on the plant, provided one 
does not spray long enough to cause the material to 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 35 



form in drops and run off the leaves. It is, there- 
fore, always advisable not to spray a plant until the 
liquid runs off on the ground, but to stop just be- 
fore the accumulation in large drops occurs. 

Of course this does not apply to the dust process. 
It is also important in using" most insecticides with 
the liquid process to keep the material constantly 
well stirred during the entire spraying operation, 
otherwise some of the material will settle to the bot- 
tom, and the spray will not be uniform or give 
satisfactory results. This is especially the case in 
using paris green or London purple. 

MACHINES FOR APPLYING INSECTICIDES. 

There are a great many different machines on the 
market for applying various insecticides, either 
liquid or dust, and the price is as varied as the ma- 
chines. It is always advisable to purchase the best 
makes of pumps or machines, since in the long run 
they are very much cheaper, will cause less annoy- 
ance and delay and bring you in better returns in 
the end. There are a number of different manu- 
facturers making excellent pumps or machines, any 
one of which is about as good as the other. One 
should, in buying a pump, obtain one that has metal 
valves, and all parts of the pump in which the liquid 
comes in contact made of brass. The so-called 
rotary or clock pumps are not as satisfactory as oth- 
ers. One should write to a number of the better 
manufacturers and obtain their catalogues and make 
his own selection, regardless of price. Pumps for 
applying liquid sprays are shown in Figs. 2 and 3; 
and machines for applying dust are shown in Figs. 
4, 5 and 6. 



36 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE^PPM^T 
ATTACKING THE ROOTS. 
WOOIvUY APHIS. 

Schizoneura lanigera, (Hausm.) 

This insect is so well known to all apple growers 
that lt needs no scientific description. A very brief 
statement of its life history may, however be use- 
ful. The adult insects are found in two forms as 
SE^nmer *^\ «*"*** a colony^te in 
crete t^rT f0rm haS Wings and d °es not ex- 

crete the downy matter (See Fig. 7 A), while the 

ext e e^ d rom 0r tL nUmerOUS ^^ ™ ' ^ and 
wbTt! a P ° res ° n its abdomen the bluish- 

white downy or cottony matter that covers the In- 
sect and renders it so conspicuous (See Fig 7 C) 
If this downy substance be touched it will be easilv 
removed from the insect, which will immedLtelv 
excrete more. Figure 7A represents a winded form 
which is an agamic female; B, a wingless or an' 
terous, form, with the downy matter removed and 
C, one with a small amount attached. Both B and 
C are apterous agamic females. All three of thes* 
figures represent the females magnified, whL the 
hair hues under the winged and between the wing! 

sp S e S ctfv°e r iy S rePreSSnt th<J natUraI SlZe ° f 6aCh "- 
The solitary eggs of this woolly aphis may be 

at U or nenr 1S t v, the K Winter '" the Cr6Vices 0f the bark 
*L°f, near the base of the tree, where they are 

of thi y S T COmpletel y enveloped in the dead skL 

of the mother, who lays a single egg. In the spring 

hese eggs hatch into wingless agamic females Ik? 

SLg f e o S rtb g , Ured " B ^ °' TheSe 'males' then 

Z 1 mg y ° ung rapidl y and without males 

-parthenogenetically. These young are always 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 37 

wingless agamic females. Their offspring do like- 
wise. This is continued during Hie summer, each 
generation being apterous agamic females only. To- 
wards the latter part of the summer winged agamic 
females are developed (see Fig. 7A). Some of the 
winged forms leave the infested tree and fly to 




FIG. 7. Woolly-Aphis of the apple, Schizoneura lanigera, magni- 
fied; a, winged agamic female; b, c, apterous or wingless 
agamic females. (Stedman.j 

other trees, where they establish another colony by 
bringing forth living young. Late in the fall, to- 
wards the approach of cold weather, some of the 
agamic females bring forth living wingless and 
mouthless true males and females. These pair, and 



38 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



the females each develop a single fertilized egg 
and perish. 

Each aphis, whether winged or wingless, is inde- 
pendent and derives its nourishment by piercing 
the bark with its long beak or mouth parts and 
sucking the sap below. 

North of the Missouri river most of the woolly 
aphis perish during the severe cold of winter, and 
the eggs are frequently the only means of continu- 
ing the species the following summer. South of the 
Missouri river, however, the aphids themselves are 
usually able to hibernate in large numbers, and 
hence it is that we find this pest so much more 
numerous in the southern half of the United States. 
Each hibernating aphis commences to bring forth 
living apterous agamic females just as soon as warm 
weather is established and as hundreds of them may 
hibernate on the roots of a single tree, it is readily 
understood why this insect is so much more numer- 
ous south of the Missouri river. 

The woolly aphis is found not only infesting the 
roots, but may occur also on the trunk or limbs 
where its presence is readily detected by the bluish- 
white cottony or downy looking substance that is 
excreted and covers the greater part of each wing- 
less aphid; and since these insects live in clusters 
or colonies, the patches of white matter are very 
conspicuous, and can scarcely escape the notice of 
even the most casual observer. In the central part 
of the United States the woolly aphis occurs more 
especially and does its greatest damage by infesting 
the roots, while in some of the eastern states, and 
especially in Europe and Australia, the presence of 
these insects above the ground, frequently kills the 
trees outright. The woolly aphis is frequently arti- 
ficially induced to attack the trunk by mulching 
or by using wrappers around the base of the tree as 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 39 

a protection against borers and rabbits. But what- 
ever may be the cause of their presence above the 
ground, the result is the same, viz., to cause an ab- 
normal growth of the infested portion, resulting in 
the formation of a rough and pitted surface known 
as a gall. 

The presence of the root-inhabiting form is read- 
ily detected by removing the earth from the roots of 
the infested tree. The appearance of the bluish- 
white or mildew-looking substance, or of knotty and 
distorted roots, will indicate its presence. It is this 
root or subterranean form that causes so much dam- 
age to the apple orchards throughout the greater 
part of the United States, and also to apple nursery 
stock. 

The woolly aphis sucking the juices from the roots 
of the apple tree causes an abnormal growth of the 
attacked portion of the roots, resulting in the forma- 
tion of gall-like swellings or excrescence. These 
swellings are usually irregular and knotty in ap- 
pearance, and sometimes attain considerable size, 
while that portion of the roots between the ex- 
crescences is frequently undeveloped. Fig. 8, which 
is a photograph of two such roots, will give one a 
good idea of the attacked portion. The woolly 
aphis and the dirt were removed in order to show 
the exact condition of the roots themselves. 

The woolly aphis will be found in large numbers 
and in clusters over the- surface of the swellings, 
and especially between them in the numerous crev- 
ices that the larger excrescences contain. The roots 
thus attacked, distorted and swollen, soon begin to 
decompose. Saprophytic fungi and bacteria enter 
the dead and decaying portions and help to hasten 
the work, and soon that portion of the root perishes. 
Sometimes the roots seem to be killed outright by 



40 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



■#•■'. 


$|F- r -'^* ; 


' (i 1 




■/ ml 








■|- 






K - 






■°-;5^, 




■ $jJ0- 




■,*j% 




[ / 








'1 






F # 


■ ■ 


P| 







FIG. S. Roots from a two-year- old apple tree, showing the ab- 
normal growths and knotty excrescence caused by the 
Woolly-Aphis. (Stedman.) 

the immense numbers of aphis sucking" the sap and 
causing the abnormal growth. As the woolly aphis 
attacks in immense numbers the main roots at or 
near the trunk, and as these roots are usually event- 
ually killed and then rapidly decay, the tree loses 
its support and falls with the first wind. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 41 

The infested apple tree appears sickly, it does not 
grow as it should. Its leaves are less numerous, and 
they have more of a pale green or yellowish color 
than is natural, and finally the tree dies outright or 
is blown over with the first wind. In nursery stock 
the damage usually comes directly from the ex- 
crescences or galls that are formed upon the roots, 
and which makes such trees unsalable, although they 
may not contain aphids or their eggs. No variety of 
apple tree seems to be exempt from the attack of 
the woolly aphis, nor does the age of the tree make 
any difference. It attacks and injures alike, seed- 
lings, nursery stock, young and old bearing trees, 
although old trees appear to withstand this pest 
much better than young ones. 

Remedies. — The aerial form of the woolly a]phis 
can be easily killed by one or two thorough spray- 
ings with kerosene emulsion. If these aphids are on 
the trunk only, as frequently happens when the 
wooden wrappers are used against the attack of 
borers, they can be killed by washing the trunk with 
the emulsion by means 'of a whitewash brush. 

The root inhabiting form can be killed by remov- 
ing the earth from about the trunk of the tree for 
some two feet and about four inches in depth, and 
filling this space in with a liberal supply of tobacco 
dust, then covering it over with the earth again. The 
rains will wash the nicotine down about the roots 
and kill the aphids and prevent others from enter- 
ing. It is important that ground tobacco or tobacco 
dust be used for this purpose, since chopped up 
stems and refuse tobacco not in a finely divided 
state will not answer the purpose. While this pow- 
dered tobacco should be placed about the tree, as 
suggested, as soon as indications of injury appear, 
nevertheless the best results are obtained by put- 



42 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

ting this tobacco dust about the trees, as indicated, 
early in the summer, when the first settled warm 
weather appears, One will thus kill the hibernating 
aphids, or the young that may hatch, before a col- 
ony has been established and more or less injury 
accomplished. 

In sections of the country where the woolly aphis 
is extremely troublesome, it is always a good plan 
to put a liberal supply of tobacco dust about the 
roots of the young trees while setting them out, and 
then each spring to place about the trees in the 
manner suggested a liberal supply of tobacco dust, 
especially if any indications appear of an undue 
number of aphids. The tobacco dust not only kills 
the aphis and prevents others from attacking the 
trees that year, but it also acts as an excellent fertil- 
izer. The use of bisulphide of carbon injected into 
the ground a foot and a half away from the trunk 
and main roots will kill the woolly aphis,, but will 
not prevent others from reinfesting the tree in a 
short time; hence it is advisable to resort to the 
use of tobacco dust in the first place. The use of 
hot water or kerosene emulsion turned about the 
roots is not advisable. From my experiments with 
this insect I can say that the use of tobacco dust as 
above indicated is far superior to any other or all 
methods. 

ATTACKING THE TRUNK, IjIMBS AND STEMS. 
ROUND-HEADED APPLE TREE BORER. 

Saperda Candida, Fab. 
The adult of the round-headed apple tree borer 
is a beautiful long-horned beetle. It is from three- 
fourths to nearly an inch in length, and with the 
antennae or feelers nearly as long as the body. The 
under surface of the body is silvery white, while the 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 43 

upper surface is light brown with two white stripes 
running from the head to the tip of the wing 
covers; the legs and antennae are gray. A picture 
of one of these adult beetles is shown in Fig. 9c, 
natural size. 

The adult beetles emerge about the last of May as 
a rule, but vary a month or so in emerging, and as 
a result they are nearly two months in depositing 
their eggs. The eggs are deposited at night, usually 
in the bark of the trunk near the base, but may 
sometimes be deposited higher up, and even in the 



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FIG. 9. Round-Headed Apple-tree borer, Saperda Candida Fab. ; 
a, larva; b, pupa; c, adult. 



limbs. The larvae or borers on hatching burrow 
in the sap wood for the first season, and, if the tree 
be young or there be several in the tree, they may 
girdle it. The second year the borers usually work 
more or less into the heart wood, and the third year 
they gnaw out towards the bark, where a cocoon 
is made within the tunnel out of their excrement 



44 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

and gnawings, and within this the pupa stage is 
passed. The adults on hatching eat their way out 
and escape. One can tell whether a round-headed 
or a flat-headed apple tree borer be in the tree by 
the presence of gnawings or droppings that accumu- 
late about the base of the infested tree, and by dig- 
ging into the tree, or by observing the holes out of 
which the adults emerge, one can determine Which 
of these two borers he has to deal with; the round- 
headed borer, both in the adult and larval condition, 
makes a round hole, while the flat-headed borer, 
both in the adult and larval condition, makes an ob- 
long burrow. 

Thus it will be seen that it requires three years 
from the time the >Qgg is deposited until the adult 
round-headed apple tree borer appears, the borer 
being within the tree all this time. Fig. 9a shows 
a picture of the larva of the round-headed borer, 
natural size, and figure 9b a picture of the pupa, 
natural size. 

The round-headed apple tree borer also works 
in the pear and quince, and in fact in nearly all 
members of the family Pomaceae. 

Remedies. — The methods of combating the round- 
headed apple tree borer may be divided into three 
classes, viz., destroying the borers, mechanical bar- 
riers, protective washes. In no case should one 
rely upon any one of these methods, and especially 
where the borers are very troublesome, all three 
methods should be resorted to. 

Every year about the last of August or during 
the first of September one should go through the 
orchard and by means of a sharp knife dig out and 
kill the borers before they have mined too far or 
have done much damage; sometimes a wire will be 
useful. Kerosene gradually turned into their holes 



FRUIT-GKOAVER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 45 

is sometimes successful, especially where capillary 
attraction will carry the oil through the castings 
which fill up the burrows and thereby reach the 
larva and kill it. 

Wire gauze or mosquito netting or thin wooden 
wrappers are of value, and should be placed about 
the base of the trunk in the 'early spring before the 
adults emerge. The wooden wrappers are satisfac- 
tory, and, as they can be purchased for about three 
dollars per thousand from box and basket makers, 
they are now the most economical. They should be 
pushed down into the ground so that the adults can- 
not burrow under to deposit their eggs, and the tops 
should be stopped up with cotton wool in order to 
prevent them from entering there. Young trees 
should be thus protected. These wrappers are also 
of value in preventing "sun scald" during the sum- 
mer, and in the winter they will keep rabbits away. 

Protective washes of various kinds are used to a 
great extent. There are many patent washes on the 
market, some of which are of value, but the great 
bulk of which are useless, and all of them are ex- 
pensive. I have found that the following wash is as 
effectual as any, and is extremely cheap, and one 
can do no better than to use this mixture in prefer- 
ence to any patent wash yet placed upon the market, 
regardless of price: 

Dissolve as much common washing soda as pos- 
sible in six gallons of water; then dissolve one gal- 
lon of ordinary soft soap in the above; slake a 
quantity of lime to a thick paste and add enough 
of this to the above mixture to make a thick white- 
wash, which will stay upon the trees an eighth of 
an inch or so in thickness. It is better to scrape off 
all the loose bark possible from the trunks and 
main limbs of the trees, and also remove the earth 



46 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



from the base and scrape the loose bark from this. 
Apply the wash liberally from the main limbs to the 
ground, covering- all portions of the bark. The dirt 
can then be placed about the base of the tree as 
before. The use of powdered sulphur has no effect 
whatever as regards insects, and hence can just as 
well be omitted from these washes. 

It must be understood that these washes have no 
effect upon the borers once they are under the 
bark; they act as repellants and prevent the adults 
from depositing their eggs. Washes must be ap- 
plied in the spring before the adults appear, and 
again in about three weeks or oftener if necessary; 
the application should be made by means of a white- 
wash brush. All cracks and crevices in the bark 
must be filled and the bark thoroughly and com- 
pletely covered. 

THE FLAT-HEADED APPLE TREE BORER. 

Chrysobothris femorata, Fab. 

The adult of the flat-headed apple tree borer is a 
beetle measuring about one-half an inch in length; 
the upper surface is of a dark, metallic brown color, 
and the under surface is of a coppery brown color. 
A picture of one of these adult bettles is shown in 
Fig. lOd; at a, the larva or borer, and at b, the pupa. 

The adults appear in the spring at practically the 
same time as those of the round-headed borer, but 
differ much from them in their habits. The beetles 
deposit their eggs during the daytime upon the bark 
and limbs of trees; the larva and borers usually 
mining and feeding in the sap wood. They hiber- 
nate on the approach of cold weather, and the next 
spring make their pupae within the infested tree, 
and the adults ultimately emerge by eating their 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 47 

way out. Both the larvae and the adults make an 
oblong shaped burrow in cross section. Thus it will 
be seen the flat-headed borer lives only one year 
within the tree. It is usually not as destructive an 
insect as the round-headed bor^r, and is largely 
found in the limbs, sometimes in considerable num- 
bers; and is more apt to attack injured and dying 
than perfectly healthy trees. Its range of food 
plants is quite large, including besides the apple, the 




FIG. 10. Flat-Headed Apple-Tree Borer, Chrysobothris femorate 
Fab.; a, larva; b, pupa; d, adult, natural size. 

peach, plum, pear, oak, hickory, chestnut, maple, 
box elder, sycamore, linden and willow. 

Remedies. — While the life history -, nd habits of 
this insect differ considerably from those of the 
round-headed apple tree borer, the methods of 
fighting it and the remedies are the same. These 
are given under the round-headed apple tree borer. 



48 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

FRUIT TREE BARK-BEETLE. 

Scolytus mgulosus, Ratz. 
The fruit tree bark-beetle was introduced into the 
United States from Europe about 1870, and it has 
since spread over the eastern portion of the United 
States from Kansas to Massachusetts, and from 
Michigan to Alabama. The beetle attacks the plum, 
cherry, apricot, nectarine, peach, apple, pear and 
quince, but the greatest amount of injury seems to 
be done in the apple orchard, probably because it is 
the more abundant fruit. , 

The beetle prefers and will attack first of all 
those trees or parts of trees that are injured, weak- 
ened or dying from any cause whatever. I have, 
however, seen many trees infested with this insect 
that were apparently as healthy and sound as any 
tree could be; but the insect undoubtedly prefers 
unhealthy trees to healthy ones, attacking the per- 
fectly healthy trees only when the insects become 
unduly numerous. It matters not what causes the 
injury to the tree, as long as it is not in a perfectly 
healthy condition the insects readily attack it. This 
is the case with neglected orchards, where the trees 
are weakened from undue attacks from borers or 
woolly aphis, or a lack of cultivation and fertiliza- 
tion, or from severe drought. A perfectly healthy 
and vigorous tree will frequently repel the attacks 
of the fruit tree bark-beetle by the copious flow and 
exudation of sap. This is especially the case with 
the stone fruits, where the beetles appear to be 
driven away by this means, and are unable to bur- 
row to any considerable distance below the bark and 
deposit their eggs. 

When the beetles attack a comparatively small 
limb, perhaps the first indication will be a wither- 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 49 

ing of the leaves, while a closer examination will 
show the bark to be more or less shriveled, as can 
be seen by referring to the photograph in Pig. 11; 
and later, when the adult beetles emerge, by the 
small "shot holes," which will be conspicuous. If 
the beetles attack a large limb or trunk, the work 
may go on for some time before it is observed; but 
usually one will detect the flow of sap, especially if 
it be a stone fruit-tree, where the exudation of drops 
of gum will be sure to attract attention, and may 




FIG. 11. Photograph of a portion of an apple-tree twig in- 
fested with the fruit-tree bark-beetle, showing the "pin holes" or 
"shot holes" and the shriveled bark. Natural size. (Stedman.) 

even be very conspicuous and run down the tree to 
the ground. 

The fruit-tree bark beetle is a small, cylindrical 
beetle about one-tenth of an inch in length and one- 
third as wide as it is long; nearly or quite black in 
color, with the very tips of the elytra or wing covers 
and portions of the legs reddish brown. Under a 
hand lens one can make out the peculiar markings 



50 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



on the back, and the short hairs on the head and 
wing covers. A fair idea of the general appearance 
of these beetles as seen under a lens can be had by 
observing the drawing of one magnified in Fig. 12/j, 
while a side view outline is shown in Pig. 12b. 

The adult beetles begin to emerge about the Inst 
of March in most seasons, and may soon begin to 
feed by eating small round holes through the bark 
of the tree. These holes are usually made near th- 
base of the larger limbs and about forks and old 
scars or lateral spurs, but are also common on the 
smaller limbs, and even on the smaller twigs; while 





a fdiS; WtJ-h e rUlt ' T P e B « k -Beetle, Seolytus rugulosus Ratz, 
fiJali beetle; b, same in profile; c, pupa; d, larva. All magni- 
l; v bou T *** * im f s - (From Chittenden,. Circular 29, Div. Ento- 
mology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.) 

in badly infested trees they may occur on the trunk 
as far down as to within a short distance of the 
ground. The holes through the bark are small, not 
much larger than the cross section of a large pin 
or about one-eighteenth of an inch in diameter; 
and for this reason are frequently spoken of as "pin 
holes," and the beetles are the "pin-hole beetle." 
Where these holes are very numerous they give the 
limbs the appearance of having been shot, or pep- 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 51 

pered full of holes with fine bird shot, and this 
again has led to another common name for the 
beetles — "shot hole borers." Fig. 11 shows the ap- 
pearance of a twig, natural size, infested with these 
beetles, and the holes and shriveling of the bark can 
be seen fairly well. 

The first holes are made by the adult beetles that 
eat directly through the bark until they reach the 
wood; then they tunnel between the bark arid the 
wood, making a hole from an inch to an inch and 
a half in length and slightly larger than the insect. 
This burrow is almost invariably in the direction of 
the long axis of the limb, or very slightly oblique, 
and is made in the cambium layer, including a little 
of the wood on one side and a little of the bark on 
the other. As the female makes this burrow, which 
is known as the brood chamber, she deposits her 
eggs to the right and left along its course. 

The minute grubs hatching from these eggs eat 
little tunnels or side galleries at right angles to the 
brood chamber, likewise keeping in the cambium 
layer and including a little of the wood and a little 
of the bark. As they increase in size they make 
the burrows larger in size accordingly, and soon be- 
gin to turn the tunnels in the direction of the long 
axis of the limb and parallel to the brood chamber. 
These side galleries are lengthened as the larvae 
feed until they are about as long as the brood cham- 
ber, or possibly longer, by which time the grubs 
have become full grown larvae. They are small, 
white, footless grubs, with brown heads, one of 
which is represented magnified in Fig. 12d. They 
then eat a little deeper into the wood and thus make 
a small chamber, known as the pupal chamber, 
stopping up the entrance with pieces of wood, and 



52 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



there change to pupae. A pupae is represented mag- 
nified in Fig. 12 c. 

When the adult beetles emerge they simply eat 
through the bark and escape. Thus it is that the 
limbs become so full of small holes through the 
bark; and as each female deposits about eighty eggs, 
as can be readily determined by counting the side 
galleries of the brood chambers, one can readily 
imagine the result when the adults emerge. From a 
short section of a limb, one-half of which is photo- 
graphed in Fig. 11, there emerged one hundred and 
sixty-seven adult beetles of one brood. 

As the great bulk of the young beetles soon attack 
the same tree from which they emerged, and eat 
holes through the bark and burrow in order to 
deposit their eggs for another brood, it can be read- 
ily understood that it does not require much time 
before these insects have completely undermine i 
the bark, and by destroying the cambium layer, 
have killed the limb above the infested place. 

By removing the bark from an infested limb one 
can readily see the shape of the burrows engraved 
upon the limb and upon the bark; and where the 
limb is badly infested one will find the galleries 
so close together and so interwoven that it is diffi- 
cult to trace the work of a single family. 

This beetle has three and sometimes four broods 
during a season, each brood requiring on an av 
age five weeks for its completion; but as the beetles 
do not all emerge at once, and vary considerably i^ 
a single tree, the result is the different broods tend 
to overlap somewhat. The beetles all perish in the 
fall, the winter being passed by the larva stage 
within the infested trees, and this, no doubt, is the 
key to successful combating this pest. These hiber- 
nating larvae transform to pupae early in the 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 53 



spring and emerge from the tree as adult beetle, 
about the latter part of March. 

Remedies.-The fruit-tree bark-beetle is more dif- 
ficult to control than other fruit-tree l^rs From 
the habits of the insects one can readily see that 
the most essential thing to be done is to keep the 
trees in a perfectly healthy and vigorous condition, 
and free from any injury or weakness, or from in- 
jured, weakened or dying parts This .can be dan 
bv careful cultivation and fertilization and by clean 
culture Although this pest will ^fest perfectly 
healthy trees, especially when the insects are m un 
due numbers, nevertheless it is so much -ore liable 
to attack weakened or dying trees, that it becomes 
important that clean culture be practiced, at least 
insofar as to remove from the orchard and burn all 
dead and dying trees or portions of trees. The 
sooner this ten be done the better. If for any rea- 
son it has not been done during the summer murt 
certainly be done during the winter; and all such 
limbs and trees burned before March, thereby de- 
stroying the insects before they emerge. When a 
See or a portion of a tree is seen to be dying from 
the attack of these insects, it is useless to try and 
save it and it should be removed and burned at 



once. 



While the cutting out and burning of unhealthy 
and attacked trees or portions of tresis of the 
greatest importance and the best method of ccmv 
bating these insects, nevertheless I have used a wash 
in many instances with good results in keeping the 
beetles away from the unattacked and healthy por- 
tions of trees. The cheapest and best wash is made 
bv dissolving as much common washing soda as pos- 
sible in six gallons of soft water; then dissolve^ 
gallon of ordinary soft soap in the above; and after 



51 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



slaking lime to a thick paste, add enough lime to 
the soda and soap water to make a thick wash. This 
is to be applied to the main limbs and to the trunk, 
after having removed the loose bark as much as 
possible. This wash should not be relied upon to 
keep these insects out of the trees, but should be 
used in connection with the cutting out and burn- 
ing of infested and diseased trees and portions of 
trees. The above wash has been successfully ap- 
plied to trees about the last of March by means of 
a force pump, but in this instance the wash cannot 
be applied in as thick a condition as with a white- 
wash brush, and the mixture must, therefore, be 
thinned with water and strained through cheese 
cloth or gunny sack, otherwise it will stop up the 
spray nozzles. This method of spraying the trees is 
a vigorous and expensive one, and should not be re- 
sorted to except in extreme cases. Should one dis- 
cover that the beetles have just attacked a tree 
where one can get at it, they may be killed by 
touching their entrances with a sponge or rag sat- 
urated with a mixture of creosote oil one part, tur- 
pentine two parts. 



TWIG PRUNER. 

Elaphidion villosum, Fabr. 

This insect, in the adult condition, is a long-horned 
beetle, about three-fourths of an inch in length; of 
a long, cylindrical shape and of a dull, dark-brown 
color. While these beetles breed normally in oak 
trees, sometimes in overwhelming numbers, they 
also do considerable damage in the apple orchard, 
especially where the orchard be near infested for- 
ests. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 55 

The female beetle lays her egg in the axil of a 
leaf, on a young twig. When the egg hatches, the 
larva bores into the young twig and down the cen- 
ter of the same towards the main twig, after reach- 
ing which it bores down the main twig, feeding 
upon the wood as it goes, and enlarging its bur- 
row as the larva increases in size. When the larva 
is nearly full grown, by which time it has probably 
mined nine inches or so down the stem, it then sud- 
denly enlarges its burrow, eating away the wood 
fibers to the bark, or in some cases leaving a few 
wood fibers, and then crawls up its burrow and stops 
up the entrance by means of its gnawings of wood. 
The larva then feeds in the upper part of the bur- 
row for some time. The first good wind causes the 
twig to break off and drop to the ground. 

By fall the larva becomes full grown, and may 
then either hibernate in its burrow, or may trans- 
form to a pupa in the same and pass the winter in 
that stage. As a rule, however, the larva hibernates 
and transforms to a pupa in the spring, the adult 
emerging in June 

Remedies. — As this is one of the many insects 
normally living in the forests, and attacking or- 
chard trees in damaging numbers only when the 
same are near forests, and as it is difficult for us to 
fight this insect in any other way than to pick up 
the fallen twigs containing the insects in the larval 
or pupal condition and destroy the same by burn- 
ing, it becomes a serious matter to try and fight this 
insect, because of the fact that the forests near by 
are so overwhelmingly 'full of these insects that 
anything you can do along this line is of very little 
use. The insects come right over into our orchards 
from the forests and it is impossible for us to fight 
them there. Where these insects become trouble- 



56 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

some in orchards away from forests, or away from 
numbers of oak trees, then the picking* up and burn- 
ing of fallen twigs will do a great amount of good. 
Many species of birds, especially the wood peckers, 
sap suckers and the like, dig out and devour great 
numbers of these insects, especially in the forests. 

TWIG GIRDLER. 

Oncideres cingulatiis, Say. 

This insect, in the adult condition, is a long- 
horned beetle about a half inch in length, and of a 
brownish-gray color. Like the twig-pruner, this 
insect is also normally found in the forests where 
it feeds upon dead hickory limbs. And again, where 
the orchards are near forests, this beetle gets into 
them in undue numbers and causes injury by like- 
wise severely pruning the apple trees. 

This pruning process, however, is quite different 
from that described under the twig-pruner. The 
female twig-girdler deposits her eggs through the 
bark of the twigs, and then, knowing that the larvae 
must have dead wood upon which to feed, she goes 
down some distance below the eggs, and by means 
of her mandibles, girdles the twig completely, by 
eating through the bark and into the wood. This 
not only kills the twig above, thus giving the larvae 
dead wood to feed upon, which they do by mining 
the twig and passing their transformations in the 
same, but the first good wind breaks the twigs off 
so that they fall to the ground. 

Remedies. — The same statements as given under 
the remedies for the twig-pruner apply here to the 
twig-girdler. Only when the orchards are some dis- 
tance from forests do we find any satisfaction in 
trying to fight these insects. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 57 

NEW YORK WEEVIIi. 

Ithycerus noveboracensis, Forster. 

This insect, in the adult condition, is a snout- 
beetle or curculio, about one-half inch in length, of 
an ash-gray color, marked with black. These 
beetles in the adult condition get into our orchards 
during May and June especially, and injure the trees 
by eating" the buds and also the bark off the tender 
shoots, thus killing them. Later they eat the young 
leaves entirely off just at their base and feed upon 
the terminal shoot. This insect also attacks the 
peach, plum, cherry and pear. It also gets into 
nurseries, where it does considerable damage by 
preventing the proper growth of the trees. The 
larval stage of this insect is found in the bur-oak 
and pig-nut hickory. 

Remedies. — One of the first things to do, where 
this insect is troubling the orchard, is to cut down 
and destroy the bur-oak and pig-nut hickory about 
the premises, so as to do away with the breeding 
places of these insects. Where the trees are small, 
one can place sheets under them early in the morn- 
ing while it is still cool, and by jarring the trees 
with a sudden stroke, the insects will feign death 
and drop to the ground, where they can be de- 
stroyed. In large trees, thorough spraying with 
arsenate of. lead before the leaves are fully devel- 
oped will kill these beetles. 



IMBRICATED SNOUT -BEETLE. 

Epicaerus imbricatus, Say. 
The adult of this insect is also a snout-beetle or 
curculio, about one-half an inch in length, of a 
silvery- white color with dark markings. This beetle 



58 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

also normally lives in the forest, but gets into the 
orchards that are near them, and cause the same 
kind of trouble as given under the New York weevil. 
The two beetles frequently work together, and it is 
practically impossible to separate the work of each. 
The life history of this beetle is not known, and 
hence no suggestions can be given as to the destruc- 
tion of its breeding places. 

Remedies. — The methods of fighting this insect 
are the same as those for the New York weevil. 



BUFFALO TREE-HOPPER. 

Ceresa bubalus, Fabr. 

The adult of this insect is about one-third of an 
inch in length, of a light grass-green or yellowish- 
brown color, according to age. In looking down on 
the insect it has a triangular shape. In front there 
is on each side a projecting horn which suggests 
the name of the insect. Those familiar with the 
beech-nut will be struck with the similarity between 
this nut and the insect, the body being" three-sided. 
The mouth parts of this insect are formed for 
sucking, and consist of a rather long, sharp beak, 
by means of which the creature sucks the sap from 
various plants. 

The adult female alights upon the apple trees in 
the latter part of the summer and deposits her eggs 
in the twigs by pushing her ovipositor through the 
bark into the wood, thus causing a slit which does 
not readily heal over and leaves a scar; and as many 
of these are placed rather close together on a twig, 
it tends to either kill or greatly injure the twig be- 
yond the egg punctures. Where these insects are 
extremely numerous, this egg-depositing process 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 59 

may injure the trees severely. The only damage 
these insects do to the orchard is in this process 
of laying eggs. In the spring, when the eggs hatch, 
the young nymphs, which are light grass-green in 
color like the adults, may feed upon the trees by 
sucking the sap from the leaves and tender shoots, 
but are more apt to leave the tree and get upon 
various weeds about the orchard or neighboring 
fields, and there feed by sucking the sap from those 
plants, until they are ready to deposit their eggs. 
They then fly to the orchard in order to do so in 
the twigs of the trees. 

Remedies. — The only successful method of fight- 
ing these insects is to destroy and prevent the 
growth of weeds of various kinds about the orchard 
and neighboring fields. There is no successful way 
of fighting these insects in the orchard trees, and 
when the eggs are deposited the injury is accom- 
plished. 



OYSTER-SHEL0D BARK-LOUSE. 

Mytilaspis pomorum, Bouche. 

The oyster-shell bark-louse is perhaps the most 
common scale insect on the apple tree, and is also 
found on the pear. While it is not regarded as a 
very injurious insect, it may become so in time if 
the infested trees are neglected. The insects that 
we see normally upon the bark are the females, 
which are covered with a dark brown or grayish 
colored scale, shaped somewhat like an oyster shell, 
and hence the name. The scales are about one-sixth 
of an inch in length and usually somewhat curved, 
and remain attached to the twigs or limbs and can- 
not move. The males, which are probably never 



60 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

seen by the horticulturist, have wings and are able 
to fly about from place to place. A picture showing 
the oyster-shell bark-louse, natural size, is given in 
Fig. 13. 

It frequently happens where trees are neglected 
for some time that these lice occur in such over- 
whelming numbers upon the twigs and branches as 
to overlap one another and completely cover the 
bark. When this is the case the insects may greatly 




FIG. 13. Oyster-shell Bark-louse. 

injure the trees. Ordinarily, however, trees are not 
neglected to this extent, and while the scales are 
quite numerous, they do no great amount of harm, 
especially on the older bearing trees. 

Along in the latter* part of August the females 
deposit their eggs under the scales. These eggs re- 
main over winter and during the latter part of May 
hatch into small, lice-like insects, which crawl out 
from the scales and move slowly over the bark, in- 
serting their beaks here and there and extracting 
the sap, apparently trying to find a suitable place 
for the rest of their existence. In two or three days 
the lice insert their beaks and shed their skins, 
shedding with them their legs, eyes and antennae, 
but not their mouth parts, which are still retained 
in the tissue of the twigs and from which they now 
have no power of withdrawing. A shell is now 
excreted about the body, completely covering it and 
extending beyond so as to be when fully developed 
much longer than the insect itself. These females 



FRUIT-GROWER CO. a ST. JOSEPH, MO. 61 

never leave this situation. The males, however, de- 
velop wings and move about as before stated. The 
females begin to develop their eggs and lay them 
under the shell again the latter part of August. 

Since there are rarely more than one hundred 
eggs deposited by a single female, and since there is 
only one brood of these insects each year, you read- 
ily see why it is that these scale insects require so 
long a time in order to absolutely cover the bark of 
the twigs and limbs of infested trees. 

The insects are carried from one tree to another 
by birds and insects, on the feet and body of which 
the young lice may crawl while they are on in- 
fested trees, but where trees touch one another the 
young lice will crawl from one to the other, al- 
though it is very doubtful whether they would be 
able to leave one tree and crawl on the ground to 
another. In nurseries, these insects, of course, have 
no difficulty in passing from one tree to another, 
since they always overlap. 

Remedies. — The oyster-shell bark-louse is easily 
killed and held in check by one or two thorough 
sprayings with kerosene emulsion during May and 
June. The sooner the tree is sprayed after the 
young lice appear the better, as they are easier 
reached at this time. As these insects are confined 
more especially on the twigs and branches, it is 
somewhat difficult to reach them with a spray when 
the trees are fully leaved out. 

SCURFY SCAUE. 

Chionaspis furfurus, Fitch. 
The scurfy scale infests the apple, pear and moun- 
tain ash, and also some other plants, and is nearly 
as common in the apple orchard as the oyster-shell 



62 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

bark-louse, but is more easily detected because it is 
of a light grayish-white color, which makes it more 
conspicuous on the bark than the oyster-shell bark- 
louse which so nearly resembles the bark in color. 
The scurfy scale not only differs in color, but it also 
differs in shape from the oyster-shell bark-louse, it 
being somewhat triangular with the insect at the 
smaller end. 

As these insects develop somewhat slower than the 
oyster-shell bark-louse they are not as apt to cover 
the bark, and neither are they as injurious to the 
tree. The male scales are long and narrow, but 
when the males are fully matured, they leave these 
scales and fly about from place to place. The winter 
is passed in the egg stage under the female scales, 
and the young lice hatch out in the spring, about 
the latter part of May, and crawl about for a few 
days before they insert their beaks and become mo- 
tionless and develop a scale over their bodies. The 
eggs do not appear until September. A fairly good 
idea of the appearance of the scurfy scale upon a 
twig can be had by referring to Fig. 14, 1., which 
represents them natural size. At lc is shown a fe- 
male scale magnified, and at Id a male scale 
magnified. 

As these insects are almost white and therefore 
attract attention, they become very conspicuous ob- 
jects on nursery stock and are frequently mistaken 
for the San Jose scale. The nursery seems to be 
the great place in which the trees become infested 
with this scurfy scale, but no one need worry about 
the presence of a few of these scales on nursery 
trees, since they are not dangerous, nor are they 



FRUIT-GROWEI! CO., ST. JOSEPH, MLO. 63 




FIG. 14. The Scurfy Scale. (Chionacpis furfurus.) 



64 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

especially injurious, and are easily held in check or 
killed. 

Remedies. — The same methods I have given for 
fighting the oyster-shell bark-lice apply to this in- 
sect; viz., thorough spraying- in the spring" and early 
summer with kerosene emulsion. 



SAN JOSE SCALE. 
Aspidiotus perniciosus, Comst. 

The San Jose scale is one of our most injurious 
and dangerous insects, and unlike the oyster-shall 
bark-louse, or the scurfy scale, the insect seems to 
poison fruit trees upon which it may be feeding". 
And also unlike the two previous scale insects, the 
San Jose scale multiplies with great rapidity. In 
fact this insect multiplies faster than any other 
known insect, the result of a single female amount- 
ing in a year to three billion, two hundred and six- 
teen million, eighty thousand insects (3,216,080,000). 
It must be understood that this does not mean that 
a single female actually produces this number of 
young", but that the result of her producing" young 
will amount to the above sum in one year, since the 
young that are produced very soon produce other 
young, and these again others, and so on with great 
rapidity, there being many broods a year. This 
rapid method of development is helped by the fact 
that these insects bring forth living young and are 
never known to lay eggs. 

The San Jose scale is much smaller than the two 
previous scale insects, and differs from them in the 
fact that the scales are circular, the insect itself be- 
ing in the center of the scale. They are of an ash 
gray color, sometimes decidedly dark, and resemble 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 65 

the bark on the stems as closely as do the oyster- 
shell bark-lice. As these insects multiply so 
rapidly, they soon literally cover a tree, so 
that the scales overlap one another, and in 
many badly infested trees, it is almost im- 
possible to see the bark itself. Such trees 
have the appearance of having been covered 




FIG. 15. San Jose Scale. Apple branch with scales in situ — 
natural size; enlarged scales above, at left. 

with wood ashes. A good idea of the general ap- 
pearance of these insects can be had by referring to 
Fig. 15, in which the scales are represented natural 
size on the large twig and magnified on the piece of 
bark at the side. 



66 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING ' 

By looking at an infested tree under a hand lens 
during the summer, one can see the San Jose scales 
in all stages of development, from the little lice- 
like creatures that move about for a day or two to 
the full-grown female scales. Unlike the two pre- 
vious scales, the San Jose scale passes the winter as 
hibernating females. Like the oyster-shell bark- 
louse, the San Jose scale is an imported insect and 
has now spread over the greater part of the United 
States and Canada. It is carried from place to place 
on nursery stock, the nurseries being the main cen- 
ters of distribution. When once in an orchard, the 
San Jose scale passes from tree to tree by the young 
lice getting on the feet of insects and birds that get 
upon the trees or by the trees overlapping or touch- 
ing one another, or by people taking scions or buds 
from infested trees. 

The San Jose scale, unlike most insects, feeds 
upon an immense variety of plants. It is known to 
infest practically all deciduous fruit trees and 
bushes, and also many forest and shade trees, and 
small plants. But it seems to be especially injurious 
to the orchard fruit trees, where the insect, in suck- 
ing the sap from the plant, appears to poison the 
cambium layer, so that when the tree becomes 
badly infested, it is liable to be killed. Very fre- 
quently orchard trees are killed outright within 
three years from the first attack. Such is not the 
case with the forest and shade trees, and in fact 
with most plants that the San Jose scale attacks. 
It frequently happens that predacious insects, such 
as lady-bug beetles, or some other causes, prevent 
the San Jose scale from developing and spreading 
as rapidly as it normally would do. 

Since the San Jose scale is such a dangerous in- 
sect, and since the nurseries are the great centers of 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 67 

distribution, it behooves one to be especially cautious 
where they purchase nursery stock. It is always a 
good plan to have nursery stock purchased from 
regions known to contain San Jose scale fumigated 
with hydrocyanic acid gas before the trees are set 
out. 

Remedies. — Hydrocyanic acid gas, made accord- 
ing to the formula given under Insecticides, for both 
Biting and Sucking insects, in the fore part of this 
booklet, is the best remedy we can use to kill the 
San Jose scale on infested nursery stock, but it is not 
practical to use this on large trees in the orchard. 
Most nurseries will now fumigate stock when so or- 
dered by the purchaser, and unless you know the 
nursery it is well to have the stock fumigated before 
you receive it, or to fumigate it yourself before it is 
planted. 

Should the orchard become infested with San Jose 
scale, one should prune back severely the infested 
trees and spray all trees in the orchard with the 
lime, sulphur and salt wash, the formula and 
method of making which will be found in the fore 
part of this booklet under the heading Insecticides 
for Sucking Insects. This spraying should be done 
early in the spring before the buds swell, and the 
work should be done thoroughly, since it is abso- 
lutely necessary to touch each scale in order to kill 
it. It is always a good plan to scrape the loose 
bark off the main limbs and trunk before applying 
this spray, because many scales will get behind buds 
or under loose bark, or in cracks and crevices where 
it is almost impossible to reach them, and a single 
scale escaping destruction on a tree is sufficient to 
reinfest that tree with an immense number of scales 
in a very short time. If one cannot spray all the 
trees at the time suggested, they may be sprayed in 



68 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

the fall sometime after all the leaves have fallen, 
but the spring spraying is usually preferred. This 
spraying may injure some of the fruit buds, but the 
trees will make a more vigorous growth than they 
otherwise would, and of course if we neglect to treat 
infested trees they will die as the result of the pres- 
ence of these insects. It is also well to prune rather 
severely all infested trees before applying the spray 
and to burn the brush. 



ATTACKING THE LEAVES. 
APPLE APHIS. 

Aphis pomi, DeG. 

These plant lice are the common aphids found in 
the spring of the year upon the apple leaves and 
buds. They are about one-tenth of an inch in length 
and of a yellowish green color. The winter is passed 
in the egg condition, and one can see these eggs 
very readily on the twigs during winter, where they 
appear as minute, oval and glossy black specks, 
usually deposited about the base of the bud or in the 
cracks and crevices of the bark on the smaller 
twigs. 

In the spring of the year, at about the time the 
buds begin to open and show the little green leaves 
below, these eggs hatch into wingless agamic fe- 
males in all cases. These begin at once to stick their 
beaks through the tissues of the unfolding leaves 
and extract the sap. In about five days they be- 
come full grown and begin to bring forth living 
young at the rate of two each day, and keep this up 
for about three weeks. The young also reach ma- 
turity in five days and likewise begin to bring 
forth living young with the same rapidity and for 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 69 

the same length of time. As this process of mul- 
tiplication is more rapid than that by the process of 
laying eggs, one can very readily see why it is that 
in a very few days from the time the buds begin to 
open, in favorable seasons, nearly every bud and un- 
folding leaf will be literally covered with these plant 
lice. The presence of these insects feeding on the 
leaves causes them to turn, or fold, over backwards, 
and thus form a protection over the colony of 
aphids which are sucking the sap from the leaves 
inside the folded portion. 

Later in the season some winged agamic females 
are produced, and these fly from the tree to other 
trees and reinfest them by bringing forth living 
wingless agamic females again. In this way the in- 
sects are distributed from tree to tree and from field 
to field. Towards the latter part of summer, after 
these insects have brought forth living young gen- 
eration after generation without males, the males 
are produced. These male insects have wings and 
are therefore able to fly about. They fertilize the 
females, which later deposit the eggs on the twigs 
and then perish. By cold weather all of the aphids 
have died and the eggs alone remain to carry the 
species over winter. 

By examining these aphids carefully under a mag- 
nifying glass one will detect two little tubes pro- 
jecting out from the back part of the abdomen 
known as the honey tube. There is excreted in drops 
from the ends of these tubes a sweet, honey-like 
substance known as honey-dew, which falls upon 
the leaves and gives them the appearance of having 
been covered with varnish. This honeydew also gets 
upon the twigs, and a little black fungus is apt to 
grow here in great profusion, giving the twigs the 
appearance of having been covered with smut. 



70 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

Many species of ants are very fond of this honeydew 
and visit the colonies of aphids in order to feed upon 
it. An ant will approach an aphid and, if there is 
no honeydew on the end of the tubes, it will stroke 
the aphids with its antennae, when a drop will be 
excreted at once for the benefit of the ant. In sea- 
sons when the flow of nectar is scarce, honey bees 
will gather this sweet excretion and store it in their 
combs. 

These plant lice are very common in all apple or- 
chards every spring, but it is only occasionally that 
they succeed in multiplying to such numbers as to 
literally cover the developing leaves, predacious and 
beneficial insects keeping them in check to a large 
extent. When they do occur in large numbers, they 
cause serious trouble by injuring the flower and 
causing the tree to shed the flowers or young fruit, 
or prevent the development of flowers at all by get- 
ting upon the flower buds while they are opening. 

Remedies. — It is a very simple matter to kill these 
aphids, or to hold them in check, if one will spray 
the trees thoroughly as soon as the buds begin to 
open nicely with kerosene emulsion, made according 
to the formula given under Insecticides for Sucking 
insects. If one is going to spray for fungus diseases 
and for biting insects at the same time, these aphids 
can be killed also by using the kerosene attachment 
on the new pumps, placing the kerosene in the spe- 
cial reservoir for that purpose and the Bordeaux 
mixture, with some arsenical poison, in the barrel 
and setting the indicator at 10 per cent kerosene. 

LESSER APPLE LEAF FOLDER. 

Teras minuta, Rob. 
This insect in the adult condition is a moth about 
two-thirds of an inch across its expanded wings. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 71 



There are three broods of these moths each year. 
The first two broods are orange colored, while the 
third brood is ash gray. The moths of the third 
brood appear the last of August, or the fore part of 
September, and, at the approach of cold weather, 
seek hibernating quarters. 

In the spring these moths come out, and as soon 
as the leaves begin to unfold on the apple trees they 
deposit their eggs there. The eggs hatch into active 
larvae in a very few days, and these larvae feed 




FIG. 16. The Lesser Apple Leaf Folder, Teras minuta, Rob. 
Adult enlarged twice natural size at c; at a, the larva; at b, the 
pupa twice natural size. 

upon the developing and unfolding leaves and spin 
a web over the same, thus preventing them from un- 
folding as they otherwise would do. 

As the leaves push out they spin more webs, pre- 
venting the leaves from unfolding, until finally the 
tree looks as though a fire had injured it. In about 
three weeks these larvae become full grown and 
then make their pupae inside of the bunch of folded 



72 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

leaves, and in about a week come out as adult 
moths, which pair at once and lay eggs for a second 
brood. This second brood behaves exactly as the 
first, but usually occurs in greatly increased num- 
bers. Inside of a month the adults of the second 
brood appear, which lay eggs for the third. Fig. 16 
shows this insect in all its stages. 

If these insects occur in undue numbers for the 
first brood they will succeed in preventing the trees 
from making any growth whatever that year, be- 
cause every terminal bud will contain one or more 
larvae which will absolutely prevent that from 
growing as it should. These insects do damage more 
especially to nursery stock and to young orchards, 
in many instances preventing the trees from making 
any growth at all for that year. I have seen blocks 
of two-year-old nursery apple trees that were still 
yearlings in appearance, caused by undue numbers 
of these insects. 

Remedies. — These insects can be readily held in 
check by thorough spraying with any of the ar- 
senical poisons, provided the same be applied before 
the larvae' have obtained any considerable growth 
and have, therefore, folded up the leaves so as to be 
practically impossible to reach them with a spray. 
In using paris green or Scheele's green for this pur- 
pose, one pound of the poison and three pounds of 
lime in one hundred and twenty-five gallons of 
water should be used; or if arsenate of lead be used, 
it should be made according to the formula given 
under Insecticides for Biting Insects. Usually one 
does not notice the presence of these insects until 
the first brood has appeared and is too old to spray 
for successfully. In this case, it is better to wait un- 
til one notices the orange colored moths, which are 
easily determined by passing through the trees and 



FRUIT- G ROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 73 

jarring" them, when the moths will fly up before 
one. The presence of the moths means that they are 
laying their eggs for another brood of larvae, and 
one should then begin to spray at once in order to 
poison the leaves before the eggs hatch and the 
larvae fold them up. 



IiEAF CRUMPLiER. 

Pliycis incliginella, Zeller. 

The adult of this insect is also a moth about six- 
eighths of an inch across its expanded wings. The 
fore wings are ash gray in color with brown mark- 
ings, while the hind wings are of a uniform dusky 
gray color. These moths emerge the last of June 
and the first of July and deposit their eggs in the 
terminal shoots of apple, plum, cherry and peach 
trees. The moths are some time in depositing their 
eggs. 

The larvae hatch in about a week after the eggs 
are deposited. They begin to feed upon the young 
leaves as soon as they hatch and make a covering, 
or tube, about their bodies by spinning silk, weaving 
in it their excrement and other material. This case 
is then neatly lined with silk. It is horn-shaped, 
with the opening at the large end, and gradually 
tapering to a point at the other, and is usually 
somewhat curved, or twisted. The larvae carry this 
case with them wherever they go, enlarging it as 
they grow in size. 

They do not eat rapidly or ravenously and are 
somewhat shy, except at night, and withdraw in 
their cases when disturbed. They have the habit of 
drawing two or three leaves together and fastening 
them with silk, feeding there somewhat protected. 



74 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



At the approach of cold weather the larvae fasten 
their cases securely to a twig by means of silken 
threads, and then gather a number of leaves about 
the same and fasten them by means of silken 




FIG. 17. The Leaf Crumpler. a, larva case; b, 
crumpled leaves; c, head end of larva enlarged; d, 
adult moth enlarged. 

threads. They then retreat within their cases and 
hibernate as about two-thirds grown larvae. Fig. 
17 shows an adult moth, at d, magnified somewhat; 
at a, a larva projecting from the end of its case: 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 75 

and at b, a bunch of crumpled leaves in which the 
larva inside its case hibernates during the winter. 

When the leaves fall from the trees these crum- 
pled up and dead bunches, of leaves fastened here 
and there upon the trees become conspicuous ob- 
jects. In the spring-, when the buds begin to open 
and the leaves appear, these larvae come out from 
their hibernating quarters and feed upon the un- 
folding leaves. This is the time when the damage is 
done, since they feed more ravenously at this period, 
and every mouthful counts for more as the leaves 
are unfolding. After feeding for about two weeks 
in this way the larvae transform to pupae, coming 
out about the latter part of June as adults. Hence 
you will see there is only one brood each year, the 
damage being done by the larvae coming out from 
hibernating quarters and feeding in the spring. 

Remedies. — Where the trees are small, so that one 
can readily reach all parts without the use of a lad- 
der, the best method of fighting these insects is to 
go through the orchard in the winter, when the 
crumpled leaves are easily detected, and pick off the 
leaves, with their contined cornucopia-shaped cases, 
in which the hibernating larvae are found, and burn 
them. As the crumpled leaves come off very much 
easier than the cases themselves, one should be 
careful or he will simply remove the leaves and 
leave the cases remaining on the twigs. Where the 
trees are large or where one has neglected to pick 
off the insects during winter, they can be killed by 
thorough spraying with any of the arsenical poisons 
in the spring of the year, as soon as the leaves begin 
to appear nicely. 



76 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



CANKER WORM. 

Anisopteryx vernata, Peck. 

There are two species of canker worms which 
look so near alike that it will be impossible for the 
ordinary observer to distinguish them, and as they 
differ in habits only in the time of emergence of the 
adults, one species emerging in the fall and the 
otner in the spring, and as the larvae of each speciea 
work together on the trees at the same time, we will 
discuss them, together. 

The male and female adult moths differ greatly in 
appearance. The males have well developed wings 
and look like ordinary moths, about an inch and a 
third across their extended wings and of a light- 
gray color. The females, on the other hand, have no 
wings at all and the body is short and thick set. 




PIG. 18. Canker-worm — a, male moth; b, female. 

Fig. 18 shows a male and a female adult canker 
worm — a, the male; b, the female; both natural size. 
In all cases it is necessary, in order that a tree 
become infested with the canker worm, that these 
wingless female insects crawl up the tree and lay 
their eggs on the stems. One species hatches out in 
the adult condition in the fall, and the females crawl 
up the trees from the first of September until cold 
weather. The other species hatches out in the 
spring, and the females do likewise, but some of 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 77 

them may begin to hatch out whenever we have a 
few consecutive warm days during 1 January or any 
time thereafter, although the great bulk of them do 
not hatch until early spring. 

In all cases, the eggs are deposited on the twigs 
and do not hatch until the tree begins to leave out. 
The larvae then appear and feed ravenously upon 
the unfolding leaves. The amount of food that these 
larvae can consume in a single day is surprising. 
Their presence can now be detected by the leaves 
which they partly devour, and by the fact that when 
one jars the tree or the limb these larvae will sus- 
pend themselves in the air about a foot by means of 
a silken thread, and in a little while crawl up again 
and go to work. In moving they crawl by a loop, or 




w e. 

FIG. 19. Canker-worm, eggs and larva. 

measuring, motion. These larvae become full grown 
in from two to three weeks, by which time they are 
dark-colored larvae, about an inch or an inch and a 
quarter in length. They then crawl down the tree or 
drop down by means of their silken threads, and 
seek some sheltered place under stones, rubbish or 
matted grass, and there spin cocoons and transform 
to the pupa stage, remaining in this condition until 
fall, or until spring, according to the species. 

Figure 19 shows a larva canker worm and eggs, 
natural size. 

The presence of these canker worm larvae devour- 
ing the leaves frequently strips the tree entirely, or 
does so to the extent of causing the tree to shed its 



78 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

bloom, and therefore ruin the prospective crop of 
fruit. These insects also attack and strip the leaves 
from the elm trees and various other forest, shade 
and orchard trees, but the great damage seems to 
be done in the apple orchards. 

Remedies. — The best method of fighting this in- 
sect is to take advantage of the fact that the females 
are wingless; that they hatch on the ground and 
must crawl up the tree in order to deposit their eggs 
on the twigs, otherwise the tree will not become in- 
fested with these insects. It is a comparatively easy 
matter to prevent these insects from crawling up the 
tree in the following way: Scrape the loose bark 
from around the trunk at a convenient distance from 
the ground, cut a band of wire mosquito netting 
four inches in width and long enough to go around 
the tree and lap six or nine inches, then cut down 
one edge an inch and a half, at intervals of two 
inches, and overlap these cuts, driving a tack 
through into the tree Where the loose bark has been 
scraped away, when around the tree fasten the two 
ends by means of a wire. The cutting and overlap- 
ping of the upper edge will cause the lower edge to 
flare out away from the tree. If any holes are left 
between the wire netting and the bark, or in the 
wire netting itself, they should be stopped up by 
means of cotton. The female canker worm motns 
will crawl up the tree as far as this wire netting 
and cannot pass it. 

This netting should be placed around the trees by 
the first of October, or at least during January, 
where only the spring canker worm is found. But 
as you will not be able to determine the difference 
between the spring and the fall canker worms, it is 
always advisable to place these bands about the 
trees by the beginning of October. They will re- 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 79 

main on the trees without injuring 1 them until the 
trees grow so as to form places of escape for the fe- 
males, or outgrows the band itself. If left on the 
trees more than one year one should go through and 
repair these bands the second fall. 

Another method of banding the tree to prevent 
the female canker worms from crawling over is to 
scrape the loose bark off at a suitable height and 
tie a band of cotton wool around at this point, the 
string or wire being placed at the bottom of the 
band, after which the top is pulled down over the 
bottom, thus inverting it and forming a fluffy, cot- 
tony band, around which the insects cannot crawl, 
since they become entangled in the fibers of the 
cotton. These bands, however, become matted and 
out of place by severe storms, and are not as satis- 
factory as the bands made of mosquito netting. 

Where one is troubled with the canker worm in 
large elm trees or other large trees the bands will 
be found far superior to any other method of fight- 
ing the insect. 

In the orchard, where the trees are not too large 
to spray thoroughly, one can kill the canker worm 
by spraying as soon as they are noticed, with any of 
the arsenical poisons. Usually one thorough spray- 
ing is sufficient, but sometime^ two sprayings are 
necessary. This second spraying, however, is only 
necessary when the first spraying was not done 
thoroughly, or the poison not made strong enough. 
In using paris green or Scheele's green one pound 
of the poison and three pounds of lime should be 
used for every one hundred gallons of water. But 
where arsenate of lead is used, the formula given 
under Insecticides for Biting Insects should be em- 
ployed. 



80 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

APPLE TREE TENT-CATERPILLAR. 
Clisiocampa Americana, Harris. 

The adult of the apple-tree tent-caterpillar is a 
reddish-brown colored moth with two oblique light- 
colored lines across the front wings. The females 
measure a little over an inch and a half across their 
expanded wings and the males a little over an inch. 
The moths appear during the fore part of July and 
soon deposit their eggs on the twigs of apple and 
cherry trees especially. These eggs are deposited in 
a bunch of about three hundred, which surrounds 
the twig completely, and is then smeared over with 
a gummy substance. These eggs remain throughout 
the summer and winter and hatch the next spring, 
about the last of April or the first of May, usually 
at the time the buds begin to open. 

The young larvae feed at first upon the gummy 
substance which the mother has placed about the 
clusters of eggs, and then begin to feed upon 
the opening buds and the unfolding . leaves. 
They work together in colonies, and pass 
down the twigs to a fork and there spin 
a silken web about the same. Inside of 
this silken web the larvae collect during the night 
and during stormy weather, crawling out and feed- 
ing upon the leaves during the day time. As the 
larvae grow they enlarge this web, or tent, as it is 
sometimes called. 

These larvae are quite ravenous feeders and soon 
defoliate the leaves from the limb upon which the 
nest is situated. In about six weeks the larvae be- 
come full grown, and then leave the tree and seek 
a suitable place in which to spin cocoons and 
transform to the pupa stage. In about three weeks 
the adults appear. These adults soon lay eggs as 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 81 

described above for another brood. Hence there is 
but one brood of these insects each year. 

Remedies. — During the winter, while the leaves 
are off the trees the clusters of eggs are quite con- 
spicuous and easily found, when they may be re- 
moved and destroyed. In the spring of the year, 
after larvae have hatched and have made their 
webs, they may be easily destroyed early in the 
morning or late in the evening, while the larvae are 
gathered inside their tents, by pushing a forked 
stick in the same and revolving it, thus winding up 
web, larvae and all, where they may be stepped upon 
and killed. The larvae can also be readily killed by 
spraying the infested limb with any of the arsenical 
poisons. 

OTHER INSECTS. 

There are a great many insects which feed upon 
the leaves of the apple tree in the larval condition 
and which we have not space to discuss. In all 
cases, however, when these insects become trouble- 
some, as is the case with the Yellow-Necked Cater- 
pillar, or the Red-Humped Caterpillar, and many 
others, they can be readily killed by spraying with 
any of the arsenical poisons. 

ATTACKING THE FRUIT. 

Codling Moth. 

Carpocapsa pomonella, Linn. 

The adult of the codling moth is about five- 
eighths of an inch across its expanded wings. They 
are of a gray-chocolate color, marked with alter- 
nate, irregular, transverse, wavy streaks of ash-gray 
and brown. The lower angle at the tip of the front 



82 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



wings has a large, tawny brown spot, with glossy 
streaks of light bronze or copper color, arranged 
nearly in the form of a horseshoe. The hind wings 
are light yellowish-brown, with the luster of satin. 
Figure 20, f and g, shows the codling moth's nat- 
ural size. 

The moths first appear in the spring at about the 
time the apple trees bloom and continue to emerge 
for about three weeks. They begin to deposit their 




FIG. 20. The Codling moth. 



eggs soon after the blossoms (petals) fall, and at 
this time usually deposit the eggs in the blossom 
end of the young apple. Later in the season they 
may deposit their eggs at varicv? places on the 



FRUIT-GROWER CO. a ST. JOSEPH, MO. 83 

apple and, even in some instances, on the leaves. 
The moths deposit their eggs at night, and 
are quite slow in doing so, rarely depositing more 
than one egg on an apple, and occupying from two 
to three weeks in the process of laying all their 
eggs. It will thus be seen that the egg-laying season 
of the first brood of moths extends over a period of 
about six weeks. 

The eggs hatch in a few days after being deposited 
and the young larvae may eat of the blossom end of 
the apple for a short time, usually not more than a 
day or two at most, and then eat their way through 
the skin into the pulp and down to the core, around 
which they feed until full grown larvae. Figure 20, 
•e, shows a full grown larva, and a, the work of the 
same in the apple; d is the pupae and i, the cocoon. 

Whether or not these apples prematurely ripen 
and fall to the ground, the larvae, as soon as full 
grown, leave the apple by eating a hole through to 
the outside and then crawl down the tree in search 
of a suitable place in which to spin their cocoons, 
inside of which they transform to the pupa stage. 
They do so under all kinds of rubbish or under the 
loose bark of the tree. 

From the time the egg is deposited until the adult 
moth emerges requires about six weeks. 

As soon as the adults appear they immediately 
pair and lay eggs for the second brood. In deposit- 
ing these eggs, the females usually do so at any- 
place on the apple. There are only two broods of 
the codling moth each year; but as the first brood 
of moths is so long in appearing and take so much 
time in depositing their eggs, the last of them are 
not through by the time the first moths of the sec- 
ond brood appear. Hence we have these moths de- 
positing their eggs on the apples continually from 



84 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

the time the blossoms fall until the apples are full 
grown. While the larvae of the second brood should 
be full grown by fall, and should leave the apples 
and make their cocoons, and pass the winter as 
pupae, or as hibernating larvae, it frequently hap- 
pens that many of them are too late to do this, and 
hence pass the winter as nearly full grown larvae 
inside of the apples. 

Remedies. — In that part of the United States east 
pf the great plains the codling moth can be con- 
trolled very readily by spraying with the arsenites. 
This has been done repeatedly, and we are now fa- 
miliar with the numerous conditions which render it 
a success or a failure. The object in spraying is to 
poison the apple so that the larva, as soon as it 
hatches and starts to feed, will get some poison with 
its first meal and be killed before it has time to eat 
its way into the apple, where it will be beyond our 
reach. We desire to kill all the larvae of the first 
brood, and thus do away with the necessity of try- 
ing to spray for the second brood. In order to do 
this it is essential that the spraying be done at the 
proper time, and the proper number of times, and 
that the work be done thoroughly. 

The first spraying, which is the most important, 
should be done thoroughly in order to cover the 
blossom end of each apple before the same has 
turned down. The first spraying should be made in 
about five days after the blossoms (petals) have 
fallen. In eight or ten days after this spraying, an- 
other spraying should be given the trees and this 
should be repeated in eight or ten days again, and 
this repeated for four sprayings. If at any time 
within four days after a spraying heavy rains occur 
the spraying should be repeated, and this not 
counted as one of the four. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 85 

If paris green or Scheele's green is to be used, 
one pound of the same should be taken in connec- 
tion with three pounds of lime and one hundred and 
seventy-five gallons of water. If arsenate of lead is 
to be used (and I advise the use of this in place of 
other arsenical poisons for this purpose), the same 
should be used according to the formula given under 
Insecticides for Biting Insects. 

It is important that one make the four sprayings 
as above suggested, otherwise it will be impossible 
to kill the great bulk of the codling moth larvae. 
We must keep the blossom end of the apple and, in 
fact, the entire apple, covered with an arsenical 
poison during the entire time that the larvae of the 
first brood are hatching, and nothing short of the 
four sprayings above indicated will accomplish this. 
It is also essential that the first spraying be done 
within five days after the blossoms fall. 

It is a good plan in connection with the spraying 
to scrape the loose bark away from the limbs and 
trunk, and to place a band of burlap around the 
trunk, removing this once a week and killing the 
larvae and pupae that will collect under the same 
in place of getting under rubbish on the ground. If 
the loose bark is not removed, many larvae will spin 
their cocoons under it. 

The destruction of wind-falls will also greatly 
lessen the number of codling moths, since wormy 
apples have a tendency to drop prematurely; and as 
each one contains one or more larvae which will 
soon leave the apple and seek sheltered places in 
which to make their cocoons, the destruction of 
these windfalls every two or three days will prevent 
the contained larvae from transforming. 

If one attends to the orchard as above indicated 
he will have a very few codling moths, provided his 



86 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

orchard is a large one and some distance away from 
neighbors who do not attend to theirs. But if one's 
orchard be near a neighbor's orchard which is neg- 
lected, no matter how thoroughly one may attend to 
his orchard, even if he should kill all of the larvae 
of the first brood, moths of the second brood from 
the neighbor's orchard will come over and deposit 
their eggs on his perfect apples, and he will later 
have wormy apples in spite of his efforts to prevent 
it. Of course, if one could keep up the spraying 
and fighting throughout the entire season the 
neighbor's orchard would do no special harm, but it 
is too expensive to try and fight the codling moth 
throughout the entire season. The best we can do is 
to fight this insect during the first brood, otherwise 
it becomes too expensive. Hence it is of the first 
importance where orchards are near together to see 
that one's neighbors fight these insects also. 

PLUM CURCULiIO. 
Conotrachelus nenuphar, Hbst. 

The common plum curculio in many instances 
does as much damage to the apples as does the no- 
torious codling moth. This is especially the case 
with the commercial orchard, where the apples are 
frequently all reduced from what would otherwise 
be number ones to number twos and threes and 
even culls. 

The plum curculio is the insect which causes the 
"sting" in the apple. Figure 21 shows one of these 
beetles magnified five diameters. 

The insect is so well known that it does not need 
description, but the life history of the insect in the 
apple will be given very briefly. 

The adult beetles appear during August and begin 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 87 

at once to "sting" the apples by feeding upon them. 
In doing this they eat small holes through the skin 
and into the pulp. These holes are usually about 
one-tenth of an inch in diameter and about the 
same in depth, and the pulp may be eaten away for 
a short distance back under the skin. These holes 
cause the apples to decay at these places and render 
them unfit for storage purposes. At the approach 
of cold weather the beetles seek some shelt°red 
place in order to hibernate, getting under rubbish or 
matted grass, or even entering the ground. 




FIG. 21. The Plum Curculio; adult magnified five diameters. 

In the spring the beetles come out from their hi- 
bernating quarters and begin to feed upon the young 
developing leaves, and later upon the petals of the 
flowers, and still later upon the young apples. Both 
the male and female beetles make these feeding 
punctures in the apples, but later the females also 
make punctures for the purpose of depositing eggs. 
In this instance the female eats a hole through the 
skin and into the pulp, and then turns around and 



88 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 




FIG. 22. Portions of apples showing "stings" and scars, a, 
b, c, e, f, g. — egg-depositing punctures; d, k. — scars showing where 
the apple is recovering as the egg did not hatch; h, i, j. — scars in 
depressions showing the apple recovering after the larva had mined 
a short distance in the pulp and then died; I. — scar showing the 
apple recovering from a feeding puncture. Natural size. (Sted- 
man.) 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 89 

pushes an egg into it. Having accomplished this, 
she eats a crescent-shaped cut through the skin, 
partially surrounding and partially undermining the 
egg. These punctures for the purpose of depositing 
eggs and also the feeding punctures are called 
"stings" by the horticulturist. 

A photograph showing the "stung" portions of ap- 
ples cut away with the various "stings" in different 
stages, can he seen in Fig. 22. When the apple is 
comparatively small it tends to outgrow these 
"stings," and will usually do so, leaving only a scar, 
provided fungoid and other diseases do not enter at 
this point. Such scars are shown in Pig. 22, at I, J. 
K, L. If the egg hatches and the larva eats its way 
into the pulp a short distance and then dies the ap- 
ple may recover from this, but will leave a scar situ- 
ated in a depression as shown in Fig. 22, H. This 
depression is due to the fact that the tissue where 
the larva has eaten becomes hard and does not 
grow to the extent the surrounding tissue does, and 
if cut into will appear as a short, dark-colored, hard 
thread which is bitter to the taste. In this way the 
great bulk of our knotty and gnarly apples are 
produced., 

If the apple in which the young larva is feeding 
falls to the ground the larva will continue to feed 
upon the pulp, mining in a zigzag direction through 
it towards the core, and when full grown will leave 
the apple and enter the ground about two inches in 
depth, pack the earth away from its body so as to 
make a small earthen cell, inside of which it will 
transform to a pupa. If, however, the apples con- 
taining the young larvae fail to fall by the time the 
larvae are half grown, the larvae appear to all 
perish. 

Fortunately, comparatively few eggs deposited in 



90 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



apples ever succeed in hatching", and of those that 
do hattch into larvae, very few ever succeed in reach- 
ing the full grown larval condition. 

The larva requires about three weeks to reach ma- 
turity, and the pupa requires a little over two weeks 
before the adult liatches; but as the larva usually re- 
mains in the ground about ten days before it trans- 
forms to a pupa, and as the adult after it hatches 
usually remains in the ground about ten days before 
coming out we find that this insect passes fully as 
much time in the ground as it does out of it, from 
the time the egg is deposited until the larva enters 
the ground. 



♦ } 



PIG. 23. The Plum Curculio; a.— adult; D.- 
Natural size. (Stedman.) 



-pupa; c. — larva. 



As the female beetles that have hibernated over 
winter begin to deposit their eggs in the young ap- 
ples about the middle of May, when the apples are 
about the size of hazelnuts, and as they are a long 
time in depositing their two hundred and fifty to 
four hundred eggs, doing so during the latter half of 
May and all of June and the first half of July, and 
as the first adult beetles begin to emerge the latter 
half of July and during all of August, and at once 
begin to "sting" the apples for feeding purposes, 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 91 

one can readily see that the apples are being "stung" 
continually throughout the entire season, that the 
larvae can be found in them until the fore part of 
August, and that the pupae will therefore be found 
in the ground from the fore part of July to the fore 
part of September. The fact that the first of the 
young adult beetles begin to emerge and "sting" the 
apples before the last of the old beetles are through 
'stinging" them, has led some to suppose there is 
more than one brood of these beetles each year, but 
you can readily see from what I have given of their 
life history, that there is but one brood each year. 
The old beetles die at the approach of cold weather 
and the young beetles hibernate over winter under 
rubbish of all kinds, and do not deposit their eggs 
until the next spring and summer, although they 
"sting" the fall apples for feeding purposes only. 

Figure 23 shows a photograph of the adult plum 
curculio at a, and the pupa at b, and at c, the full 
grown larva, all natural size. 

Remedies. — It is possible to kill many of the adult 
beetles in the spring of the year while they are feed- 
ing upon the unfolding leaves, provided one sprays 
thoroughly twice before the blossoms open with any 
of the arsenical poisons. 

It is also possible to kill great numbers of the 
pupae and of the young adults in the ground before 
they emerge, provided one will plow the orchard 
shallow and immediately and thoroughly harrow 
the same the middle of July and then harrow thor- 
oughly again the first and again the fifteenth of 
August. The plowing and harrowing breaks the 
earthen cells in which the pupae are situated and 
kills the great bulk of them, and the middle of July 
until the middle of August covers the period in 
which the pupae are found 'in the ground. 



92 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

The best single method, however, of fighting these 
insects is to take advantage of the fact that the 
larvae will die by the time they are about half 
grown unless the apples fall to the ground. Hence, 
if we will pick up once each week and destroy by 
burning or by feeding to stock windfalls, or will 
turn hogs or other stock into the orchard so that 
they will eat up the apples as fast as they fall, we 
can thus prevent the development of adults, which 
would come out and reinfest our orchard. It must 
be understood that the spraying in the spring of the 
year is the only method that will greatly lessen the 
number of "stings" in the early apples that particu- 
lar year. The destruction of windfalls and the cul- 
tivation of the orchard lessening the number of 
"stings" for the next year, more especially, and also 
lessening the late "stings." If the above directions 
be followed, one can, in a year or two, so rid his 
orchard of these insects that the "sting" will be 
practically prevented. 



INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE PEACH. 

ATTACKING THE ROOTS. 

BLACK PEACH APHIS. 

Aphis persicae-niger. 

These aphids are almost black in color and are 
found principally upon the roots of the peach tree, 
although they sometimes get on the leaves. The in- 
sect exists in two forms : — one wingless, agamic fe- 
males, and the other, winged agamic females. The 
eggs are deposited in the fall of the year by the 
true females, and they pass the winter on the roots 
or on the stems, according to the place the aphids 
happen to be when the eggs were deposited. In the 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 93 

spring of the year these eggs hatch into wingless, 
agamic females in all cases, which immediately be- 
gin to insert their beaks into the tissues of the plant 
and extract its sap. They bring forth living young, 
which are also wingless, agamic females, and they 
in turn do likewise in a few days, so that a colony 
is established very soon. 

Later, winged, agamic females are developed, and 
these fly to other trees, bringing forth another col- 
ony without the presence of males. Later in the 
season the true males and females are produced, 
and after pairing, the females lay the eggs as above 
stated. 

These insects do considerable injury to the peach 
where they occur in sufficient quantities, and give 
the tree a sickly appearance, which is frequently 
mistaken for the yellows. 

Remedies. — The methods of fighting the black 
peach aphis on the roots are the same as those 
given for fighting the woolly aphis of the apple; 
viz., the removing of the dirt about the tree, filling 
in with powdered tobacco and covering the same 
over again with the earth. The reader is referred, 
to the remedies given under the discussion of the 
Woolly Aphis, which also apply for the black peach 
aphis and is given there more in detail. 

ATTACKING THE TRUNK, MMBS AND STEMS. 
THE PEACH-TREE BORER. 

Saimina exitiosa, Say. 

The adult peach tree borer is a moth that differs 

from most moths in that its wings are more or less 

transparent and shaped somewhat like the wings of 

wasps; in fact, the casual observer is very apt to 



94 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



mistake these moths for wasps as they are flying 
about in the sunshine and depositing their eggs. 
The male measures about one inch from tip to tip 




FIG. 



24. Adult Peach-Tree Borer. The upper one is the 
male; the lower one is the female. 



of the expanded wings, and the females about one 
and one-half inches. The two sexes differ so much 
in general appearance that one would scarcely be- 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 95 

lieve them to be the same species. The general color 
of these moths is a deep steel blue, while the female 
has a conspicuous orange band across the abdomen. 
One may obtain a fair idea of the general appear- 
ance of these adults by observing Fig. 24, which 
represents them enlarged; the upper ligure being 
th3 male and the lower figure the female. 

The adult moths begin to emerge in the spring, 
usually in May, and continue to emerge until well 
in July, for, unfortunately, they do not reach ma- 
turity together. Hence it is that they are found 
depositing eggs for so long a time. There is but one 
brood each year, however. The eggs are deposited, 
as a rule, on the bark at or near the surface of the 
ground, although they will sometimes deposit them 
up the trunk and even on the larger limbs. The 
young larvae, or borers, are active and soon eat 
their way through the bark to the sap-wood, usu- 
ally entering where there is a crack or crevice. 
They feed in the cambium layer, enlarging their 
tunnels as they grow, and if the tree be a small one, 
or if there be several larvae in the same tree, they 
may girdle and kill it, or greatly weaken and in- 
jure it. When cold weather appears the larvae hi- 
bernate in their burrows, and in the spring after 
they have fed for a time and become full grown, 
they make an oblong cocoon by fastening their ex- 
crement and gnawings together by means of a little 
silken thread and gum which exudes from the tree. 
This cocoon is usually near the surface of the bark 
and more or less surrounded by the exudation from 
the tree. Within this cocoon the larvae, or borer, 
transforms to the pupa stage, and shortly emerges 
as an adult moth. 

As is well known to all the presence of the borer 
within a tree is easily detected by the gummy exu- 



96 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

dations, usually mixed with more or less excrement 
and borings; but as this may be just below the sur- 
face of the ground, it may escape notice for some- 
time, unless the earth be removed from about the 
base down to the large roots. 

The peach tree borer will also attack the plum 
tree. 

Remedies. — As the methods of combating this 
borer are the same as those for the apple tree bor- 
ers, with the exception that wrappers should not be 
used on the peach tree, the reader is referred to the 
remedies given under Round-Headed Apple-Tree 
Borer. 



PEACH-TREE BARK-LOUSE, 
OR PEACH LiECANIUM. 

IJecanium nigrofasciatum, Perg. 

These scale insects are about one-eighth of an 
inch in diameter, of a somewhat circular form, and 
very hemispherical, and the color varies from a 
bright red through reddish-brown to almost black. 
They are very conspicuous objects on the smaller 
twigs, where the bark is smooth, as they project 
up above the twig and are easily detected. 

The eggs will be found during the early spring 
massed together under these scales. They hatch 
about the first of June into minute, lice-like crea- 
tures that crawl about the twigs, inserting their 
beaks here and there, but finally finding a suitable 
place, insert their beaks and remain attached to the 
twig in this place during the rest of their existence, 
if they be females. They then begin to excrete the 
shellac shell over their bodies, which is so familiar 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 97 

the peach-grower. The males finally develop 
vings and fly about. 

Ordinarily these insects are not found in over- 
whelming numbers on the peach tree, but occasion- 
ally occur in such numbers as to greatly injure the 
vitality of the tree. They do not multiply as rapidly 
as some other scale insects, and rarely occur in suf- 
ficient quantities to completely cover the bark of 
the infested twig. 

Remedies. — The best method of fighting the in- 
sects is to spray the infested trees with kerosene 
emulsion twice during the fore part of June, or be- 
fore the leaves on the trees have become full 
grown, after which it is very difficult to touch these 
insects with the spray, since the leaves catch 
practically all of it. 

OTHER INSECTS. 

The Fruit-Tree Bark-Beetle sometimes attacks the 
peach trees and does a great amount of damage, 
especially where the trees are neglected and have 
become weak from any cause. Their presence is 
easily detected in the peach tree on account of the 
exudation of gum from their burrows, and where a 
limb is very badly infested, drops of gum will be 
found projecting, out from the bark wherever these 
perforations are made. Since this insect was dis- 
cussed under the apple, the reader is referred to it 
for a discussion of the insect and for the remedies. 

The New York Weevil and the Imbricated Snout 
Beetle both do damage to peach trees by eating the 
buds and also the bark from the tender shoots, and 
the reader is likewise referred to the discussion of 
these insects under the apple. 



98 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

ATTACKING THE LEAVES. 
PEACH-TREE APHIS. 

Myzus persicae, Sulzer. 

This is also a dark colored plant louse, resembling 
somewhat the black peach aphis, and this fact has 
led many people to erroneously suppose they are 
one and the same insect. 

The small glossy, black eggs of these insects are 
deposited on the limbs in the fall of the year, and 
as soon as the buds begin to open the following 
spring and show the little green leaves, they hatch 
into wingless, agamic females, which begin at once 
to suck the sap from the unfolding leaves and to 
multiply in a similar manner to the black peach 
aphis. It frequently happens, where conditions are 
favorable, that these insects multiply to such an 
extent as to completely cover each developing leaf; 
but as these insects are preyed upon by a number 
of predacious and parasitic insects they are usually 
held more or less in check. When the leaves are 
about full grown, the presence of these aphids suck- 
ing the sap from them causes the development of 
little elevated places, which become reddish on the 
side opposite the plant lice. These leaves then give 
the tree a sickly appearance, and is frequently mis- 
taken for peach yellows. The general life history of 
these aphids follows that given for the black-peach 
aphids. 

Remedies. — These insects are very easily held in 
check by one or two thorough sprayings with kero- 
sene emulsion, which is better applied early and 
before the leaves are fully developed. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 99 

OBLIQUE-BANDED LEAF-ROLLER. 
Cacoecia rosaceana, Harris. 

The adult insect is a moth nearly an inch across 
the expanded wings. The front wings are of a light 
cinnamon-brown color, crossed with little wavy, 
dark-brown lines and with three broad, oblique, 
dark-brown bands, one of which covers the base of 
the wings- The hind wings are ocher-yellow, with 
the folded part next to the body blackish. 

These moths deposit their eggs upon the trees, 
they hatch in the spring into small, greenish-yellow 
larvae that attack the developing leaves soon after 
they have unfolded. The larvae feed upon the 
leaves, first drawing them together and fastening 
them by means of silken threads. As many of these 
larvae work together at a colony they soon succeed 
in drawing all the leaves on a young branch close 
together, thus forming a nest inside of which they 
continue to feed until full grown. They make their 
pupae inside of the web and enclosed leaves. In 
about two weeks the pupae work their way partly 
out of the web, their skin splits open and the adult 
moths appear. This usually takes place the latter 
part of June. This web, or nest of curled-up leaves, 
forms such a protection for the larvae that it is 
practically impossible to reach them by any of our 
ordinary sprays. 

The larvae may feed on the young fruit by eating 
the skin and pulp, especially when the fruit is in- 
cluded in the nest. 

Remedies. — The best plan to fight these insects is 
to cut off the twig containing the nest of folded and 
enclosed leaves and destroy them. It is rare that 
these insects occur in large quantities, and hence 
this removing of the few infested twigs will causo 
no loss whatever. 



l*f*. 



100 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

FRUIT-TREE LEAF-ROLiIiER. 

Cacoecia argyrospila, Walker. 

The adult of this insect is also a small moth 
about three-fourths or seven-eighths of an inch 
across its expanded wings, and is bell-shape when 
the wings are closed. The front wings are yellowish- 
brown, mottled with darker and lighter colors, and 
the hind wings are light grayish-brown color. They 
lay their eggs in the fall of the year in a mass upon 
the twigs of the trees, and smear them over with an 
excretion from the bodies. 

In the spring, soon after the leaves appear, these 
eggs hatch, and the larvae feed upon the leaves, 
sometimes drawing two or three together by means 
of silken threads and also spinning a slight silken 
web over the partially folded leaf. They also fasten 
the leaves to the young fruit and in that protected 
position feed upon the fruit. Where the larvae are 
very numerous they may ruin the entire crop of 
fruit by eating the skin off and also more or less of 
the pulp, and in some cases devouring the entire 
fruit and even eating into the seed, while the same 
is in a soft condition. When full grown the larvae 
transforms to pupae inside of the slight web which 
they have spun over the folded leaves, and later 
come out as moths, which deposit their eggs on the 
twigs as before stated, where they remain over 
winter. 

Remedies. — Thorough spraying with arsenate of 
lead as soon as the larvae first appear and before 
they have become sheltered will kill them. 

BAG WORM. 

Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis, Haw. 
During the winter, while the leaves are off the 
trees, one frequently notices little oblong bags, made 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 10.1 



of silk and portions of the leaves of the tree, hang- 
ing suspended from the twigs. If these are opened 
one will find inside some of them a mass of eggs, 
within what appears to be the pupa stage. These 
are the females, one of which is shown in Fig. 25, c. 
The males are moths with rather transparent wings 
and of the general size and shape showing in Fig. 
25, d. 




FIG. 25. The Bag- worm; a, caterpillar removed from the bag; 
b, male chrysalis; c, wingless and legless female moth; d, male 
moth; e s bag cut open showing female chrysalis and eggs; f, cater- 
pillar in the bag; g, cones made by young larvae. 

These eggs hatch in the spring after the tree 
leaves out, and the larvae feed upon the leaves. 
They soon make a case about their bodies composed 
of silk and portions of the leaves upon which they 
are feeding, and enlarge it as they grow. They 



102 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

carry this case about with them wherever they go. 
When they become full grown, which is towards 
the latter part of summer, they fasten these cases 
to the twigs by means of bands of silk, and inside of 
it transform to the pupa stage. These insects feed 
upon a great variety of shade, as well as orchard 
trees and some ornamentals. A full grown larva 
within its case, or bag, is shown in Fig. 25, f. 

Remedies. — These insects are readily killed by 
spraying the trees thoroughly with arsenate of lead 
made twice as strong as that given in the formula 
under Insecticides for Biting Insects. As these in- 
sects are somewhat hard to kill, especially when 
more than one-third grown, it is well to spray just 
as soon as the larvae appear, and to use the spray 
of double strength and to spray thoroughly. As it is 
not advisable to spray a peach tree under ordinary 
conditions, one should not spray the trees that are 
not badly infested and should never use anything 
but the arsenate of lead. Even then, under some 
conditions, which we do not understand, peach trees 
are occasionally injured by the spray. 

If the peach trees are small so that they can be 
reached without the use of a ladder, one can go 
through the orchard in the winter and pick these 
bags off, thus removing the female bags with their 
eggs. 

OTHER INSECTS. 

The Leaf Crumpler and the Apple-Tree Tent-Cat- 
erpillar, also attack the peach and cause more or 
less trouble, but the reader is referred to the dis- 
cussion of these insects and their remedies under 
the Apple. 

The Tarnished Plant Bug also attacks the peach 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 103 

trees early in the spring and causes damage by 
sucking the sap from the expanding leaf and flower 
buds, thus causing them to turn dark, and fre- 
quently killing the flower buds. The reader is re- 
ferred to the description and life history of this in- 
sect, as given under the Strawberry. The insect is 
killed in the peach trees by spraying with kerosene 
emulsion early in the morning, while the insects 
are sluggish and will not readily fly away from the 
spray. 

ATTACKING THE FRUIT. 
ASH-GRAY PINION. 

Iiithoplione antennata, Walker. 

The adult of this insect is a dull, ash-gray colored 
moth, about an inch and a half across its expanded 
wings, and with the fore wings variegated with 
grayish-brown. An adult moth is shown, natural 
size, in Fig. 26, b. These moths appear in the latter 
part of the summer, when they may be seen flying 
about the orchard. 

In the spring, shortly after the trees shed their 
blossoms, the eggs hatch into larvae which feed upon 
the fruit by eating holes into it and mining out the 
inside, not only the pulp, but while the peaches are 
young, eating the tender, developing kernel and 
seed. These larvae are of a pale-green color, with 
cream colored spots and a broad band of the same 
color along each side. A larva just leaving a peach 
is seen at a, in Fig. 26. When full grown larvae, 
they leave the fruit and crawl down the tree and 
enter the ground a short distance. They then pack 
the earth away from their bodies and spin a light, 
silky cocoon, inside of which they transform to the 
pupa stage. 



104 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

Where these insects are not numerous the real 
damage is very slight, because a certain thinning of 
the peaches is advisable where they are numerous 
upon the tree, but when, as sometimes happens, 
these insects become unduly numerous, they devour 




FIG. 26*. Ash-gray Pinion, a, larva; b, adult moth; both 
natural size. 

more than their share of fruit. Each peach at- 
tacked by one of these larvae is, of course, ruined. 
Remedies. — As the peach does not readily fall to 
the ground when attacked by these insects we have 
only two methods of fighting them — one of which is 
to spray the trees with arsenate of lead two or three 
times, beginning when the peaches are about the 
size of cherries and keeping this up at intervals of 
two weeks. It is advisable, of course, to make a 
test on a few trees for the first year in order to de- 
termine whether or not the peaches in that particu- 
lar place will be injured by the spray before one at- 
tempts to apply it to the whole orchard. The other 
method of fighting these insects is to harrow the 
orchard thoroughly about the first of August, and 
thus destroy the pupae before the adults have time 
to emerge. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 105 



INDIAN CETONIA. 

Euphoria inda, Linn. 

The adult of this insect is a beetle a little more 
than one-half inch in length, and of an oblong 
shape and quite robust. The head and thorax are 
dark colored, or almost black with a copper luster, 
and thickly covered with short, greenish-yellow 
hairs. The wing covers are light yellowish-brown, 
mottled with black spots. The under side of the 
body is nearly black and covered with hairs, and 
the legs are reddish. 

These beetles appear early in the spring and fly 
about the orchards on sunny days, making a buzzing 
noise very much like bees. They can be found suck- 
ing the sap from the wounded portions of the trees. 
Later in the season the adult beetles do injury to the 
peach by eating holes into the ripening fruit. The 
larval stage of these insects is not known. 

Remedies. — As these insects attack the fruit when 
it is nearly ripe, or ready to pick, it is a very diffcult 
matter to suggest any remedy for them, since it 
would not be advisable to try and spray at this time. 
Where they are unduly numerous, one can readily 
catch them with a net and thus prevent a great 
amount of injury which would otherwise follow. 

PLUM CURCULIO. 

Conotrachelus nenuphar, Herbst. 
The plum curculio was so thoroughly discussed, 
both in regard to its habits and life history and 
methods of fighting it, under the apple insects, that 
it will not be necessary to repeat it here; and the 
reader is therefore referred to the discussion of this 
insect there given. 



106 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

The plum curculio attacks the peach with more 
freedom than it does the apple, and it also breeds 
much more rapidly in the peach than it does in the 
apple. The peach does not readily drop to the 
ground when infested by these insects, but tends to 
remain upon the tree. It is a common occurrence 
to find practically every peach on the tree infested 
with one or more of the larva of the plum curculio, 
sometimes as many as eight in a single young peach. 

The presence of these larvae feeding in the pulp 
causes a gummy exudation to appear on the outside 
of the fruit, which may extend down in little 
threads from a quarter to a half inch, and one may 
imagine the fruit to be entirely ruined. However, 
in a great many cases, even where the fruit is badly 
attacked, it will remain upon the trees after the 
larvae have become full grown and have left it, and 
it will frequently recover and make a fairly good 
peach. Hence from a commercial standpoint, this 
insect does not do the immense amount of damage 
in the peach that it does in the apple, although it 
breeds much more readily and is much more nu- 
merous in the peach orchard. The peculiar rough 
and fuzzy skin of the peach probably has more or 
less to do with this, also the exudation of gum 
which protects the opening from the attack of dis- 
eases, and also the rapid growth of the peach re- 
sulting in a rapid healing of the wound. 

OTHER INSECTS. 

The Peach Gouger and the Fruit-Tree Leaf-Roller 
also attack the fruit of the peach tree by eating the 
skin and pulp, thus ruining the peach that is eaten 
to any considerable extent. The Pruit-Tree Leaf- 
Roller has been discussed and the reader is there- 
fore referred to the same under Insects Attacking 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 107 

the Leaves of the Peach Tree. The Peach Gouger 
is a curculio beetle which, as an adult, eats through 
the skin and into the pulp, sometimes doing- consid- 
erable damage. Both' of these insects, when in un- 
due numbers, can be held in check by spraying 
thoroughly two or three times with arsenate of lead. 

INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE STRAWBERRY. 

ATTACKING THE ROOTS. 

MAY BEETLE, OR WHITE GRUB. 

Liachnos terna fusca, Frohl. 

The adult of the white grub is known by the 
common name of May Beetle, and is familiar to all 
as the dark, chestnut-brown, thick-bodied beetle, 
about seven-eighths of an inch in length, which ap- 
pears during May and June, and flies about our 
houses, bumping against the same and getting into 
our rooms at night, being attracted by the light. 
These beetles remain more or less quiet during the 
daytime and become active and fly about at dusk 
and during the night. Figure 27 shows two of these 
beetles, natural size. 

They feed upon the leaves of various fruit trees, 
especially the cherry and plum, and the female de- 
posits her eggs in the ground. The larvae, on hatch- 
ing, feeding upon the roots of various plants, and 
burrowing through the earth from plant to plant. 
They require several years to reach the full-grown 
larval condition, and during this time may feed 
upon the roots of a great variety of plants, doing 
more or less damage, according to the number of 
larvae present. When full grown these larvae, 
which are known as white grubs, are about an inch 
and a half in length, of a light color, somewhat 



108 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



transparent, with a thick, juicy body about the size 
of a man's little finger. The body is bent so that 
the abdomen and the head almost come together. 
Figure 27 shows one of these larvae, natural size, 
at 2. 

When the larvae become full grown they trans- 
form to the pupa stage in the ground about the 
roots of the plant upon which they happen to be 
feeding at that time, and the adult beetles emerge 




FIG. 27. May Beetle; 3 and 4, adult beetles; 1, pupa; 2, larva 
or white grub. All natural rlze. 

during May and June. As these beetles usually de- 
posit their eggs in grass fields, it very frequently 
happens that when such a field is plowed and 
strawberries set out, these grubs, finding themselves 
deprived of the great quantity of roots upon which 
they have previously been feeding, attack the roots 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 109 

of the strawberry and kill the plants. Where these 
insects are not numerous the injury is of course 
slight, but where they are extremely numerous, as 
sometimes happens, each spadeful of earth con- 
taining- one or more white grubs, the strawberry 
plants are almost sure to be ruined. 

Remedies. — Where these insects are extremely 
numerous in a young strawberry bed, there is no 
remedy you can use that will prevent the destruc- 
tion of the same, and one should plow under the 
bed and plant the field to some crop upon which 
these insects will not feed. After starving these in- 
sects in this way, one can then set out the strawberry 
plants without danger of injury from these insects. 
Where one wishes to set out a strawberry bed in a 
field previously occupied as a pasture or some crop 
containing a large amount of grass, it is always 
advisable to turn over a few spadesful of sod in 
order to see whether or not these insects are there 
in sufficient quantities to seriously injure straw- 
berry beds. In that case, one of the best methods 
is to turn hogs into the field in order to allow them 
to root up the grubs and feed upon them, and to 
plant in the field for the first year some crop re- 
quiring cultivation and upon the roots of which 
these gruts will not feed, and the next year plant 
the strawberries. Do not put the infested field in 
wheat or corn. 

ATTACKING THE STEMS. 
CUTWORMS. 

There are several species of cutworms, the habits 
of which are similar and the insects closely related, 
so that it is not necessary to describe each of them, 
and we will therefore refer to them as a group. 
The adults are moths about an inch and a half 



110 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 




FIG. 28. Variegated Cut- worm, a, adult; b, c, d, larva; e, egg, 
magnified; f, eggs on a stem, natural size. 



across their expanded wings, most of them being 
of a dirty brown color. They deposit their eggs 
at the base of grass during the summer, and the 
larvae on hatching burrow in the ground and feed 
upon the roots of grass, becoming nearly full grown 
larvae by the approach of cold weather. They then 
hibernate over winter and the next spring when 
settled warm weather appears they change their 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. Ill 

food habits entirely, ceasing to feed upon the roots 
of grass as heretofore. 

They now come out from the ground during the 
night and crawl about in search of some green 
vegetable matter upon which to feed, and do so by 
cutting down the strawberry plant and a great vari- 
ety of other garden and field crops. They seem to 
feed on a plant only long enough to cut the same 
off near the ground, and then pass on to another, 
doing the same work. In this way a single larva 
may do considerable damage in one night. 

At the approach of day these cutworms crawl into 
the ground or under rubbish and there remain until 
the following night, when they come out to con- 
tinue their depredations. This method of feeding 
and injuring plants goes on for about two weeks, 
when the insects become full grown larvae and 
enter the ground an inch or two, and make little 
earthen cocoons inside of which they transform to 
pupae, the adults emerging along the middle of the 
summer. The Variegated Cut Worm in its various 
stages is shown in Fig. 28. 

Remedies. — There are two ways by which we can 
fight the cutworms in the strawberry patch. If 
the field be a small one, such as a little home gar- 
den patch, one can place shingles or boards about 
the patch, and every morning go through and turn 
these boards over and step upon the larvae or cut- 
worms that will collect under the same instead of 
going to the trouble of entering the ground. It 
will be but a few days before the patch will be rid 
of these pests. 

Where the strawberry patch is a large one, the 
better plan would be to poison the cutworms in the 
following way: Take a bushel of bran and mix with 



112 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



it thoroughly while dry two pounds of paris 
green or Scheele's green, or one pound of powdered 
white arsenic, then make a dough out of the same 
by means of sweetened water, using a quart of mo- 
lasses or sorghum for each three quarts of water. 
Scatter handsful of this poisoned bran here and 
there about the field. The cutworms during the 
night will feed upon this in preference to the plants. 
Of course one should be cautious and not allow 
poultry or livestock of any kind to have access to 
this poisoned field until the poisoned bran has dis- 
appeared, which it will do in time by repeated 
rains. 



CROWN BORER. 

Tyloderma fragariae, Riley. 




PIG. 29. Crown Borer; a, larva; b, c, adult beetles. All mag- 
nifed. Hair lines at side of each figure represents natural size. 

The adult of this insect is a small curculio beetle 
about three-sixteenths of an inch in length, and of 
a dark brown color. The beetles appear the latter 
part of June or the fore part of July and deposit 
their eggs in the crown of the strawberry plant. 
These eggs soon hatch into larvae or grubs, which 
eat their way down into the crown and there feed 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 113 

upon the same, mining it out more or less. Some- 
times a crown will contain two or three of these 
larvae, in which case the crown may be entirely ex- 
cavated and the plant killed. When the larvae be- 
come full grown they transform inside the crown, 
the adult beetles emerging later. Fig. 29 shows two 
adult beetles and a larva, all magnified. 

Remedies. — As these beetles do not tend to mi- 
grate far, and rarely infest a new bed in sufficient 
quantities to cause serious trouble, but occur in 
sufficient quantities in beds three years or more 
old, and as it is impossible to kill these insects by 
means of sprays, the only successful method of 
fighting them is to take the young plants from the 
old bed, being sure that the same are not infested, 
and with them to set out a new bed some little dis- 
tance from the old one, plowing under the old bed 
and using the field for some other crop for a year 
or two. 

ATTACKING THE LEAVES. 
STRAWBERRY IiEAF-ROIiLiER. 

Phoxopteris comptana, Frohl. 

The adult of this insect is a small moth about a 
half inch across its expended wings. The front 
wings are reddish brown, streaked and spotted with 
black and white, while the hind wings are dusky. 
One of these moths is shown in Fig. 30, natural size 
and also magnified. 

The adult moths appear in the spring and de- 
posit their eggs on the leaves of the strawberry 
plant; the larvae when hatched feed upon the same, 
and at once fold the leaves over and fasten them by 
means of silken threads, thus protecting the larvae, 
since they do not eat through the outer epidermis. 



114 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

This injures the plants, and where numerous causes 
the bed to appear as if a fire had passed over it. 
When the larvae have become full grown they 
transform to pupae within the folded leaves, and in 
a couple of weeks transform to adult insects, which 
immediately pair and lay egg's for another brood. 
The pupae of the second brood remain over winter 
as such. The first brood appears before the straw- 
berries blossom and the second brood after the 
strawberries have been gathered. 




w 



FIG. 30. Adult Strawberry Leaf-Roller. The upper flgur eenlarged, 
the lower figure natural size. 

Remedies. — While it is possible to spray the 
strawberry plants before the fruit is one-half grown 
with any of the arsenical poisons and kill these in- 
sects before they have folded up the leaves and be- 
come protected from any spray, nevertheless this is 
not as successful a method as to wait until the 
strawberries have been gathered, and then mow the 
plants and allow them to dry, then set fire to them 
when the wind is in a favorable direction and burn 
over the entire patch. If the plants are not thick 
enough to burn well by themselves, straw may be 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 115 

spread over to help in this process. This burning 
of the plants at this time will not injure them in 
the least, even though it be a dry season. 

FALSE-WORM. 

Harpiphorus maculatus, Nort. 

The adult insect is a hymenopterous saw-fly, a 
little less than one-fourth of an inch in length and 
about one-half inch across its expended wings. An 
enlarged picture of one is shown in Pig. 31. 

The adult insects appear early in the spring, 
either the latter part of April or the first of May, 
and begin at once to deposit their eggs on the leaves 




FIG. 31. Adult Strawberry False-Worm; enlarged. (Sted-man.) 

of the strawberry plant by pushing the eggs through 
the epidermis of the leaf. In about two weeks the 
eggs hatch and the larvae, which are slug-like, be- 
gin at once to feed upon the leaves by eating small 
holes through them, leaving the main ribs of the 
leaves untbuched. The larvae require about five 
weeks in order to become full grown, by which 
time they have stripped the plants of their leaves 
or greatly injured them. When the larvae are -full 
grown they enter the ground a short distance and 
make a fragile cocoon, inside of which they remain 



116 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

during" the rest of the summer and over winter, 
transforming to the pupa stage the next spring. 

Remedies. — As this insect feeds upon the exposed 
leaf, it is a simple matter to kill them by spraying 
the plants thoroughly with any of the arsenical 
poisons; or, if the plants be in bloom, or fruit be 
upon them, it is better to use powdered white helle- 
bore in place of the arsenical poisons, at the rate 
of one pound of the powdered white hellebore in 
three gallons of water. Or the white hellebore may 
be placed upon the plants as a powder, by mixing 
equal parts of the powdered white hellebore and 
flour, and dusting the same upon the plants early 
in the morning while the dew is on them. 

ATTACKING THE FRUIT. 
TARNISHED PLANT-BUG. 

Liygiis pratensis, Linn. 




FIG. 32. Young Tarnished Plant Bug; second stage, X9 diam. 
(Stedman.) 

The tarnished plant bug is a small sucking insect 
of an elliptical shape, somewhat flattened, about 
one-fifth of an inch in length and about half as 
wide. Its color varies considerably, ranging from a 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 117 

lark brown through light brown to yellowish or 
yellowish-green, with darker and lighter markings, 
which in some instances are more or less obscured. 
Fig. 34 shows an enlarged drawing of one of these 
n sects, and Fig. 32 and Fig. 33 enlarged drawings 
of two of the young stages of the insects. 




FIG. 33. Young Tarnished Plant Bug; third stage, X9 diam 
(Stedman.) 

The tarnished plant bug hibernates during winter 
under rubbish of all kinds, such as is usually found 
along fences or along the edges of timber, or wher- 
ever there is any matted grass or weeds. Early in 
the spring as soon as the buds begin to swell, these 
insects come out and begin at once to suck the sap 
from the expanding buds, both leaf and flower, of 
various fruit trees and bushes, especially the peach- 
The insects insert their beaks through the tissues 
of the bud and extract the sap, introducing involun- 
tarily a little poison which causes the bud to turn 
dark, and where badly injured may kill the same. 

When the flowers appear these insects pierce 
them as well, and likewise cause them to turn dark 



118 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

and greatly injure them, or kill them if the injury is 
sufficient. These insects attack not only the or- 
chard fruits, but also the small fruits, such as rasp- 




FIG. 34. Adult Tarnished Plant Bug; X6 diam. (Stedman.) 

berry, blackberry and especially strawberry, when 
the blossoms are appearing. 

The tarnished plant bug does its greatest amount 
of damage, perhaps, in the strawberry patch when 
the same is in bloom, since wherever these insects 
suck the sap from the flower or the developing 
berry it causes that portion to cease growing, and 
may kill it outright or will cause an uneven growth 
or a complete "buttoning" of the berry. While this 
is not the only cause of "buttoning," it is usually 
the principal cause, and it is also the principal cause 
of the buds, flowers and young fruit "blighting," 
as it is called. 

The tarnished plant bug deposits her egg in the 
spring singly on the plants upon which it is feed- 
ing, and the young bugs hatching from these eggs 
begin to suck the sap in a manner similar to the 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 119 

adults; so that later in the season these insects may 
be found in various stages of development on the 
plant. 

Remedies. — In the orchard the best plan of 
fighting these insects is to spray the trees early 
in the morning while it is yet cool with kerosene 
emulsion. If one waits until the sun is up well and 
the atmosphere warm, these insects are so active 
that they will fly away from the tree before the 
spray can reach them. In the strawberry patch, 
however, as these insects are there feeding upon 
the flowers and developing berries, it is not advis- 
able to use the kerosene emulsion because the same 
will taint the berries and the emulsion may inter- 
fere with pollination. Hence in the strawberry 
patch one should dust the plants early in the morn- 
ing with fresh and pure pyrethrum, one pound of 
which should be mixed with two or three pounds of 
common flour, and the same applied by means of 
any of the numerous dust applying machines. Py- 
rethrum can also be sprayed upon the plants by 
mixing a .pound of the pyrethrum with three gal- 
lons of warm water. 

Another excellent method of fighting these in- 
sects is to spray the plants with a patent extract of 
tobacco known as "rose-leaf extract." One gallon 
of this extract in fifty gallons of water will give 
excellent results. I have tried making an extract 
of tobacco, or tobacco tea, myself, but have never 
been able to reach anything like the good results 
with it that can be obtained with the patent extract 
given above. 

THRIPS. 

These insects are so small that they escape the 
notice of most people who have not sharp eyes. 



120 



A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 



They are about one-fifteenth of an inch in length, 
very long and narrow, and agile, moving about and 
flying at the least provocation. They may be found 
in the blossoms of the strawberry, where they 
sometimes occur in such numbers as to prevent the 




FIG. 35. Tferlps, greatly magnified. (Stednmii.) 



development of the berries. By jarring a few flow- 
ers and picking them to pieces over a white paper 
one can sometimes catch great numbers of these 
insects, where they can be seen under a magnifying 
glass to be quite interesting little creatures. Fig. 
35 shows a picture of one of these insects greatly 
magnified. 

Remedies. — The same remedies as given above 
for the tarnished plant bug apply equally for the 
destruction of this insect. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 12.1 

CONTENTS. 

I NTRODUCTION 

Page 

Development and Metamorphosis 6 

INSECTICIDES 

For Biting Insects 

Paris green 10 

Scheele's green • 12 

Green arsenite or . arsenoid 12 

London purple 12 

Arsenite of lime 13 

Arsenite of soda 13 

Arsenate of lead 15 

Powdered white hellebore . . 16 

For Sucking Insects 

Kerosene emulsion 16 

Whale oil soap 19 

Tobacco tea 20 

Lime, sulphur and salt 20 

Lime, sulphur and soda 22 

For Both Biting and Sucking Insects 

Pyrethrum 23 

Carbon bisulphide 24 

Hydrocyanic acid gas 25 

METHODS OF APPLICATION OF INSECTICIDES 

The liquid process 25 

The dust process 26 

Application 32 

Machines for applying insecticides . . 3 5 

INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE APPLE 
Attacking the Roots 

Woolly Aphis 36 



122 A TREATISE ON SPRAYING 

Attacking the Trunk, Limbs and Stems 

Page 

Round-Headed Apple Tree Borer 42 

Flat-Headed Apple Tree Borer . . . . 46 

Fruit Tree Bark-Beetle 48 

Twig- Pruner . . < 54 

Twig Girdler 56 

New York Weevil 57 

Imbricated Snout-Beetle 57 

Buffalo Tree-Hopper 5 8 

Oyster-Shell Bark-Louse 59 

Scurfy Scale 61 

San Jose Scale 64 

Attacking the Leaves 

Apple Aphis 68 

Lesser Apple Leaf Roller 70 

Leaf Crumpler 73 

Canker Worm 76 

Apple Tree Tent-Caterpillar 80 

Other insects 81 

Attacking the Fruit 

Codling Moth 81 

Plum Curculio 86 

INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE PEACH 

Attacking the Roots 

Black Peach Aphis 92 

Attacking the Trunk, Limbs and Stem 

Peach Tree Borer 93 

Peach Tree Bark Louse or Peach Lecanium 97 

Other insects 97 

Attacking the Leaves 

Peach Tree Aphis 98 

Oblique Banded Leaf Roller 9 9 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 123 

* Page 

Fruit Tree Leaf Roller 100 

Bag Worm 100 

Other insects 102 

Attacking the Fruit 

Ash Gray Pinion 103 

Indian Cetonia 105 

Plum Curculio s 105 

Other insects " 106 

INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE STRAWBERRY 

Attacking the Roots 

May Beetle or White Grub 107 

Attacking the Stem 

Cutworms 109 

Crown Borers 112 

Attacking the ^Leaves 

Strawberry Leaf Roller 113 

False Worm 115 

Attacking the Flower and Fruit 

Tarnished Plant Bug 1.16 

Thrips 119 



JUN 12 1905 




ST cJOSBPH, 



MISSOURI 



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